Sub install question
New member here, great forum. I have a 2015 F150 Lariat supercrew with a factory sound system, no sub. I recently upgraded to Sync 3 using the kit from 4D Tech, which works perfectly, and was relatively easy to install. I would like to add a little bass to the system by adding a small subwoofer.
I have read the thread on installing a Kicker 11HS8 hideaway sub, and I think that’s the direction I want to go. I verified that I have the gray connector, and I’m sure I can get it wired up.
My question: Will I be able to program the vehicle to enable the subwoofer, given that I’ve installed the Sync 3 hardware? I’m not familiar with Forscan, but I’m willing to learn! Is there any chance that the dealer would enable it for me?
Thank you
I have read the thread on installing a Kicker 11HS8 hideaway sub, and I think that’s the direction I want to go. I verified that I have the gray connector, and I’m sure I can get it wired up.
My question: Will I be able to program the vehicle to enable the subwoofer, given that I’ve installed the Sync 3 hardware? I’m not familiar with Forscan, but I’m willing to learn! Is there any chance that the dealer would enable it for me?
Thank you
Some dealers, yes, some dealers no. But for what they'll charge you, you can buy the cable you need (given you have a notebook computer).
Just prepare and plan. Read the FORScan sticky while you wait for your speaker and the WPT1212 harness. And get signed up on the FORScan site while you wait, too - you can do this.
Just prepare and plan. Read the FORScan sticky while you wait for your speaker and the WPT1212 harness. And get signed up on the FORScan site while you wait, too - you can do this.
New member here, great forum. I have a 2015 F150 Lariat supercrew with a factory sound system, no sub. I recently upgraded to Sync 3 using the kit from 4D Tech, which works perfectly, and was relatively easy to install. I would like to add a little bass to the system by adding a small subwoofer.
I have read the thread on installing a Kicker 11HS8 hideaway sub, and I think that’s the direction I want to go. I verified that I have the gray connector, and I’m sure I can get it wired up.
My question: Will I be able to program the vehicle to enable the subwoofer, given that I’ve installed the Sync 3 hardware? I’m not familiar with Forscan, but I’m willing to learn! Is there any chance that the dealer would enable it for me?
Thank you
I have read the thread on installing a Kicker 11HS8 hideaway sub, and I think that’s the direction I want to go. I verified that I have the gray connector, and I’m sure I can get it wired up.
My question: Will I be able to program the vehicle to enable the subwoofer, given that I’ve installed the Sync 3 hardware? I’m not familiar with Forscan, but I’m willing to learn! Is there any chance that the dealer would enable it for me?
Thank you
I installed the Kicker 11HS8 hideaway sub tonight. The thread called “How To Install Kicker Hideaway (Plug-and-Play)” was very helpful. I wired up the Motorcraft WPT1212 connector harness exactly as that thread described and it works great!
Here’s what I did with the Forscan and sub settings, for what it’s worth:
I enabled the auxiliary subwoofer in Forscan
I toyed with the 7 speaker with kicker audio, and other options, but ultimately left those settings unchanged from factory (disabled). The sound is much better without the other settings enabled, at least in my case.
On the sub, I set auto turn-on to 12v, set input level to high, set phase to 0, set bass boost to the midpoint, set x over frequency to the midpoint. I set gain to maximum, but that function is overridden by the remote bass ****, according to the kicker instructions, so it doesn’t matter where you set it.
It’s a very nice improvement in the sound! I am still playing with the bass boost and crossover *****, but the midpoint settings are a good starting point. Obviously the small sub is not going to overwhelm the cab with bass, but it’s a great upgrade! I’m very happy with how it sounds.
Once I figured out that I had to download drivers for the obd code reader, I was able to stumble around in forscan and get the settings changed. I made several other changes in the programming too, like disabling the double horn honk, Bambi mode, etc.
Thanks to everyone for all the help!
Here’s what I did with the Forscan and sub settings, for what it’s worth:
I enabled the auxiliary subwoofer in Forscan
I toyed with the 7 speaker with kicker audio, and other options, but ultimately left those settings unchanged from factory (disabled). The sound is much better without the other settings enabled, at least in my case.
On the sub, I set auto turn-on to 12v, set input level to high, set phase to 0, set bass boost to the midpoint, set x over frequency to the midpoint. I set gain to maximum, but that function is overridden by the remote bass ****, according to the kicker instructions, so it doesn’t matter where you set it.
It’s a very nice improvement in the sound! I am still playing with the bass boost and crossover *****, but the midpoint settings are a good starting point. Obviously the small sub is not going to overwhelm the cab with bass, but it’s a great upgrade! I’m very happy with how it sounds.
Once I figured out that I had to download drivers for the obd code reader, I was able to stumble around in forscan and get the settings changed. I made several other changes in the programming too, like disabling the double horn honk, Bambi mode, etc.
Thanks to everyone for all the help!
Aquifer - and just like that, you know more than I do. I'm glad you got'r'done! My WPT1212 came late yesterday - so this weekend, it's my turn (I'm using a B&O OEM enclosure with a Boss Speaker and Amp). The B&O speaker was paper cone, looked cheap. I will have less than 300 USD in my upgrade, not counting band-aids (I'm sure I'll skin or cut something before I'm done).
The big unknown for me is how to know phase/polarity of the speaker wires. I suppose trial-and-error is just about my only choice.
The big unknown for me is how to know phase/polarity of the speaker wires. I suppose trial-and-error is just about my only choice.
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Aquifer - and just like that, you know more than I do. I'm glad you got'r'done! My WPT1212 came late yesterday - so this weekend, it's my turn (I'm using a B&O OEM enclosure with a Boss Speaker and Amp). The B&O speaker was paper cone, looked cheap. I will have less than 300 USD in my upgrade, not counting band-aids (I'm sure I'll skin or cut something before I'm done).
The big unknown for me is how to know phase/polarity of the speaker wires. I suppose trial-and-error is just about my only choice.
The big unknown for me is how to know phase/polarity of the speaker wires. I suppose trial-and-error is just about my only choice.
Good luck! Let us know how the system sounds when you’re done.
I heeded your advice and did a lot of homework before the sub arrived. I signed up at the Forscan site, studied the tutorial in the stickies section, and had a pretty good idea what to do before I started. I even ordered the cheap windows tablet mentioned in the sticky thread because I don’t have a windows laptop. It worked surprisingly well once I got the driver downloaded for the obd reader. The thread I referred to above has the wiring information you need to make sense of the WPT1212. I’m sure the book that comes with your sub will show what you need to connect the 1212 to.
Good luck! Let us know how the system sounds when you’re done.
Sounds like you're a mac user - and maybe you wanted the Windows tablet anyway, but you could have used VMware on a MacBook, if that's what you have. Either way, you got everything done quite quickly, and I'm happy to hear your success story, especially that there was power to the factory harness that the WPT1212 uses. I'll verify the presence of Fuse 22 before I start.
If this goes well, I may start my journey towards Adaptive Cruise Control, nobody has done one yet (that I know) on a 2018 XLT 302a. I've already done the 8 inch instrument cluster, so I'm about ⅓ of the way there.



