I'm still waiting for proof of extra wear and tear on the starter.
Every start/stop thread claims added unnecessary wear but to date, nobody on a vehicle with start/stop enabled has replaced a starter.'


I do not have start/stop on my model year, however when my instant fuel usage display drops by a quarter gallon per mile at every traffic light, I'd like to see how much I could potentially gain from having it shut off.
Thanks for posting this thread. We haven't had one in about 2 weeks.

I could shut off my engine at a light and start it, but I'd add extra wear to the starter because my truck doesn't have the same technology that the start/stop design implements.

 

If you are taking it to a shop for an oil change you'll need to toss the owners manual out the door. It should state something like driving for 10 minutes of stop and go to warm the oil. If you catch all the lights red and the truck shuts off, the oil won't be warm enough to change yet. Note: You will use more gas by driving a longer time just to get oil warm. To remedy this added fuel consumption, you should not change your oil anymore.

 

The Transmission Fluid Auxiliary pump needs to be used once in a while or it may fail due to non use. It will throw a Code if it fails and to get rid of the code you will need to replace the pump even if it is not used by the Auto Start Stop. Not sure if it applies to the 10 speed.

 

I did that with my 2009, replaced the starter at 60,000.

 

No WAIT....what weight should I use.

 

I only use EVOO

 

The stop/start feature does not become active until everything is operating at temperature, that and including the cam phasers.

But that's beside the point, for me anyway since I toggle it off on every startup.

I've read that the BMS can recalibrate itself to a lower charge on the battery. If it's true, unplugging the BMS, then, plugging it back in when the battery gets charged back up to its optimum level, would recalibrate the BMS. I think you would also need to leave it sit for 8 hours. I think the BMS purpose is to protect the battery from overcharging along with minimal stress on the charger as well.

Need an expert on this.

 

The cheaper option than the Eliminator is to wire in a jumper wire between the wires on the back of the switch itself. There are threads on here showing which wires to connect. Takes about 20 mins. if you are slow opening up that panel. The original thread I saw used a paperclip between the connectors which I wouldn't recommend, but the end result is as soon as you start the truck, the truck thinks the disable button has been pushed, and you are not messing with the battery management system. I personally did not see a change in mpg by disabling the ***.

 

I haven't seen that video. Would the forscan tool do it also?

 

Yup. The only way I'm interested in, *** is still 100% functional and immediately available if I choose, nothing else is disabled or interfered with. Set it and forget it, unless you want to change it then push the button and bam it's back






An A3/B4 0w-40 of course