Shocking
A good example is every day on the way home, on a 50 mile an hour Rural Road, straight away uphill, I always hit a small utility patch. Holding the steering wheel straight, the back end wiggles quickly back and forth so bad you really need to be paying attention. Even kicks the cruise control off. Maybe it's a 5.5' bed thing. I'm going to try Fox 2.0 shocks thanks to a great deal from site vendor Stage3Motorsports.
I notice the bump out also from time to time, and yeah it's a little jarring at first, but I've never kicked so bad into another lane.
Many people on this board say the adjustable shock from Rancho improve this. RS9000XL
I run E-rated tires.
I also have the sway bar and ICON shocks. ZERO hop. Even before these were added
I never felt the truck was dangerous and really no different than any other truck I've owned.
I also have the sway bar and ICON shocks. ZERO hop. Even before these were added
I never felt the truck was dangerous and really no different than any other truck I've owned.
I've lived in the same area now for close to a decade. There is a bridge that crosses the highway used to get to the housing development I live in. On the corner, just past the bridge is a truck stop. 18 wheelers have worn this bridge out pretty badly. It's rough as hell no matter what you drive over it. Because you have to turn onto it, extreme velocity over it isn't really achievable. Normally you are at 20-30MPH max until you hit the end of it. I've owned three trucks since I've lived here. My 2008 F-150 XLT SCREW, my 2015 Lariat FX4 SCREW and my 2016 F-250 FX4 CCSB. Out of those three trucks, the only one that exhibits the deflection of the rear end over the bridge is the 2015 F-150. I've also had two 2015 F-150 loaners / rentals that came from the dealership while my F-150 was on order and in the shop respectively. Neither of those trucks had the issue.
The F-150's all had different configurations, though the cabs were all the same as were the beds. All three used the 3.5L EB engine. The first one was a Caribou 4x4 Lariat. This truck was one I had for about 4 days while waiting for a dealer transfer on mine. I later had an Ingot Silver 2WD XLT 301A which didn't exhibit the problem and rode substantially smoother than the other 2015's I've driven. Lastly, my Magnetic F-150 Lariat 501A FX4 SCREW was terrible with rear end deflection. This bridge was where it was most noticeable. With the stock Goodyear Wrangler Fortitude HTs the problem was worse than it was with my replacement Toyo M/T 33's on Fuel Pump D515 wheels. The wheel and tire combination increased the weight of each wheel and tire to 120lbs. This is significantly higher than it was with the stock setup. This improved the driving characteristics of the truck aside from there being a bit more road noise at highway speeds.
Many people report success and failure solving this issue with the Hellwig sway bar. My sense is that this isn't a sure fire fix and it only masks the problem in some cases. It isn't a real fix for the problem or has a placebo effect in some cases. In all the threads devoted to this topic it seems that replacing the shocks is as close to a surefire solution as we are going to get. I can't recall anyone doing this and not reporting success with it. This of course will depend largely on the shocks and the suspension setup if it's modified, so even with this your mileage may vary.
Depending on who you ask, the FX4 shocks are either stiffer or softer than the stock 4x4 shocks. In one case a forum member reported that their non-FX4 truck's shocks had the same part number as the FX4 shocks while others clearly show their 4x4 trucks having different ones. Out of the two I drove which were 4WD, the FX4 clearly had a stiffer ride.
I don't think anyone's really chimed in on the bed / cab configuration data concerning this issue. I suspect the lighter trucks are more prone to this problem than the heavier ones are. My F-250 doesn't suffer from this issue, but it weighs over 7,000lbs. About 2,000lbs. more (give or take) than the F-150 does. Now, in the past I've had other trucks with and without this problem. My 1998 F-150 SCAB was bad about this. Again the problem was reduced somewhat by using better tires. I had a 2002 F-150 SCAB which didn't have the problem at all. My 2003 Silverado didn't have the problem either. All of these were 2WD. I have also been able to replicate this issue with a 1992 Formula Firebird which only did this when I went over that same ****ty bridge too fast. There just isn't a lot of weight over the rear wheels on those cars which I suspect is in part the problem with the trucks. Longer beds and heavier configurations may simply not have the issue, but I think it comes down to suspension design or the choice of shocks more than anything.
I live in West Virginia where our roads and interstates are probably some of the worst in the country. Interstate 64 east bound which I drive to work daily has a raise in the pavement that has been there for over a year that is equivalent to a speed bump if not worse. I have a 15 screw xlt 5.5' non fx4 20" PVDs it's one of the smoothest riding vehicles I have ever owned especially for a truck. However It is a truck... It Does feel a little bouncy in the rear over that bump but nothing even close to feeling unsafe or do I ever worry in the worst conditions I'll lose control even out the 2 lane back roads with craters for potholes. I have drove much worse, i.e. a F-650 non air ride. Fun..
Last edited by WileinWv15; Aug 3, 2016 at 02:21 AM.
I wonder if the length of the leaf-springs has anything to do with it ? Looking at the F150 the springs seem quite a bit shorter than some other trucks springs. Probably a weight savings measure, aluminum is probably not were Ford lost all the weight on the newer trucks just most of it. Thinking a shorter spring pack may just be a bit more prone to hop add that to under damped shocks and that could be the issue.
Just rode in my friends new F150 a few days ago it also seemed to be a tad harsh over expansion joints.
Ford has a very difficult suspension engineering job here. Making a truck with the F150's payload and towing capacity while still giving a compliant ride when empty/unloaded.
The Ram 1500 rides like an old caddy but its also down 500lb or more in payload capacity to the F150 in most configurations.
Every thing has give and take while designing a truck, want best in class towing or payload,,,expect a bit of a harsh ride or other handling quirks when the truck is empty or not towing.
Want that same truck to be super smooth over bumps and not have a bit of kick or hop, then drop the payload /tow ratings and soften the springs.
Just thinking out loud here
Just rode in my friends new F150 a few days ago it also seemed to be a tad harsh over expansion joints.
Ford has a very difficult suspension engineering job here. Making a truck with the F150's payload and towing capacity while still giving a compliant ride when empty/unloaded.
The Ram 1500 rides like an old caddy but its also down 500lb or more in payload capacity to the F150 in most configurations.
Every thing has give and take while designing a truck, want best in class towing or payload,,,expect a bit of a harsh ride or other handling quirks when the truck is empty or not towing.
Want that same truck to be super smooth over bumps and not have a bit of kick or hop, then drop the payload /tow ratings and soften the springs.
Just thinking out loud here
Last edited by Chris70; Aug 3, 2016 at 03:04 AM.
That makes perfect sense and explains why most report the issue is fixed with better after market shocks.
Another thought, I suspect some people are caught by surprise when the rear end does hop or kick and over correct with the steering or brakes or even just letting off the Gas.
I drove a Chevy 3500 SRW reg cab for work years ago. That truck rode stiff as a board and kicked/Hopped over sharp bumps when going around a bend.
The best driving technique was to do NOTHING at all ! Letting off the gas made it worse, braking made it worse, steering correction made it worse.
Keep the wheel and acceleration steady and the truck would straighten right out , no big drama. When the other guy I worked with drove..... he over corrected with the steering and let off the gas everytime. That just upset the truck even more and made it a bit scary.
I drove a Chevy 3500 SRW reg cab for work years ago. That truck rode stiff as a board and kicked/Hopped over sharp bumps when going around a bend.
The best driving technique was to do NOTHING at all ! Letting off the gas made it worse, braking made it worse, steering correction made it worse.
Keep the wheel and acceleration steady and the truck would straighten right out , no big drama. When the other guy I worked with drove..... he over corrected with the steering and let off the gas everytime. That just upset the truck even more and made it a bit scary.
Last edited by Chris70; Aug 3, 2016 at 03:23 AM.







