Serious performance mods
10-04-2015, 10:39 AM
#41
Junior Member
Have a ROUSH/ Ford Dealer install it, you get the parts warranty to correspond with your remaining factory warranty...and pay the $1,900 - $3,000 extended Roush powertrain warranty (on top of Ford) for 3 or 5 years...maybe money worth spending for the peace of mind.
http://www.roushperformance.com/part...it-570-HP.html
http://www.roushperformance.com/part...-category.html
According to Roush's forum rep, Will - 2015 parts should be out in Oct/Nov.
http://www.roushperformance.com/part...it-570-HP.html
http://www.roushperformance.com/part...-category.html
According to Roush's forum rep, Will - 2015 parts should be out in Oct/Nov.
Also, with the warranty we're talking $10k+ over the price of the truck. Not sure if I can spend that much sight unseen. Will talk to my local Roush dealer to see if/when they can arrange a test drive.
All in all, the EB + tune (and wait for more aggressive mods to become available) route seems the way to go from a risk/reward perspective. A Roush test drive (if there is such a thing) might change my mind. We'll see.
01-14-2016, 12:42 PM
#42
Senior Member
The problem with your argument is that the EB can also upgrade its turbos for the same amount of money. That and it has actual forged internals I believe vs the whatever forged internals the coyote has. For the money, I think the EB will have the coyote beat until you upgrade the internals and add a SC to it.
Then the displacement will have the EB beat for most hp.
Then the displacement will have the EB beat for most hp.
Originally Posted by WarSurfer
...Eco is considerably cheaper to 400ishHP/500ishTQ, marginally cheaper around 600hp and equal in cost @ ~800 to 1000hp.
It doesn't matter if you can upgrade turbo housings, or 'insert mod here', etc... the factory eco internals will not support 700+ hp for any length of time at those power levels. And as I also posted earlier it is right around that power threshold that the mod cost begins to equalize because both engines need more robust internals.
I'm not knocking the eco in any way, I have one in my '15 Expedition. All I'm doing is posting real world costs associated with building both engines. The 45k engine from the aforementioned race team was just to show that there are 800+hp eco's out there - you could obviously build one yourself cheaper and I showed that with the Livernois forged shortblock option. So in summary, there is no problem with my argument.
01-14-2016, 12:53 PM
#43
since the OP bought a 5.0, the ecoboost options dont really matter. How about we let that go.
OP... the real question is... are you buying a blower, and if so, PD or Centrif??
OP... the real question is... are you buying a blower, and if so, PD or Centrif??
01-14-2016, 12:57 PM
#44
While I'm a huge ProCharger fan and I bet the centri works great on these 4v coyotes, there's just something about the whipple on a 5.0.
01-14-2016, 01:06 PM
#45
yea... on my 12 GT, i ALMOST did a KB (i know, i know, but it was 3k cheaper than the whipple) but at the last minute I went Vortech. Disappointment. Its like driving a honda...no body is home until VTEC kicks in around 3500 and then she comes on strong at the end of the power band. But if I had the PD blower... I would have had all that low end power that I was missing, and still been fine up top since that motor is designed to do so. So I agree, BUT that centrif idle FTW!