I picked this truck (18 xlt supercab) up a few months ago. It's been a long time since I had a pickup that I loved as much as this truck. I've been doing some light/easy mods to it and have it almost where I want it.

I installed a Tesla style head unit, changed the wheels, Borla exhaust, and installed a set of smoked tail lights.

She is Blue Jeans Metallic in color and when the sun is shining directly on her, you just know she needs some help with the paint.

My issue is that I've been trying to figure out what is safe to use on the finish for these trucks. I've seen all sorts of videos and I less decisive than ever. My uncle who is a body man says the finish is way too thin on these trucks to do any heavy correction, so now I'm paranoid about digging in too deep. I'm looking for some recommendations on a good compound you have had success with along with the proper pad(s) to use with it.

I'm definitely a novice when it comes to buffing out vehicles. I do own a Makita variable speed professional buffer with a 7" wheel.

Thanks in Advance,

Josh

 

My truck is also Blue Jeans. This was after my spring detail. I washed, clayed the entire truck. Used megs show car glaze #7 and topped with two coats of Liquid Glass.

Photos don’t do it justice, but it looks next to perfect. I’m sure there are all these new ways to ceramic coat and all that, but I’m not looking for 5 year supposed paint protection. I like to go over the whole truck every so often and it just works for me. The LG will bead water for a long time.

 

I clay then compound (if needed);then polish then wax. About an 8 hour process

I use all Meguir product. And Chemical Guys for my foam cannon

there are some great videos out there if you are a little timid on how to do things. Meguirs 101 is a good video. It is English but lays a good process out.

but use a product you are familiar and happy with. They all good as long as you do it correctly

 

Paint swirls eh? I don't play with paint and buffers, too afraid I'd screw it up. I took mine to a good shop that does paint correction, and them use a ceramic coating on it. Looks great and lasts. Product was ,https://gtechniq.com/product-categor...xoCnH4QAvD_BwE
Yes, it costs more than DIY, but I didn't want to chance it. I do have to get out there and do a detail and replenish the coating soon, but it's a once a year thing.

 

honestly id just take it somewhere and let a professional put their judgement on it. The paint on our trucks isnt super high quality anyway and it would be easy to buff past the clear coating. even with a good buffing, the orange peal in the paint is still going to be there sadly enough.

 

Any decent random orbital and proper foam pad will get you what you want without being dangerous to the paint. Most stuff is pretty safe these days, now if you tried a old orbital buffer with a wool pad then yea burn through is a problem.

As for what you're looking for, I'm a fan of Adam's products. This kit is what I started with, albeit a long time ago, and top it off with a good ceramic/graphene coating and not have to worry about a real detail for a few years.

https://adamspolishes.com/collections/machine-hand-polishing-kits/products/adam-s-two-step-swirl-killer-12mm-kit

 

Just remember no matter what you do, it will rain within 24 hours after the truck is finished

 

I bit the bullet this morning. I've clayed this truck already. Then a spray ceramic polish as well.

Today I gave it another wash and clay. I blew it almost dry with my leaf blower then dried it completely with a drying towel.

I grabbed a bottle of meguiars ultimate compound. I have a few foam pads, but went with the original Makita wool pad after watching a tutorial that said that wool actually doesn't build up as much heat as the foam pads. Speed was between 2 and 3.

I feel like the results speak for themselves. About 3 hours got the whole truck after the initial wash and clay.