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Old Sep 19, 2018 | 11:46 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by KG7BTU
That's weird, I usually see an unlimited miles 24 month warranty on Motorcraft replacement parts: www.motorcraft.com/us/en_us/home/warranty.html
You have GOT to be kidding me! I wonder if electronic parts are different. If that's the case, I better just pretend I didn't know it cuz if I go back to that dealership again (which I swore I wouldn't) with that info, I may end up with some uncomfortable shiny bracelets.

This all went down a while back, and it's been kind of out of sight, out of mind since then because I rarely had anyone ride back there anyway. Now my wife has changed vehicles and we take my truck a lot more because it has more room. After a month of my son complaining about not being able to roll his own window down, I figured I'd look into it myself and see if it was something I could fix. I don't remember the exact date, but I'm going to find out if it's been less than 2 years. Problem is, they even said then that they would charge me a diagnostic fee because it "may not be the same thing this time". I told them the exact same thing was wrong, so if it wasn't the same thing wrong then obviously they didn't fix it correctly the first time when it was under warranty.

Yeah, I'm getting worked up just thinking about that mess again. I really better not go up there.
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Old Sep 19, 2018 | 11:50 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by tareed94
With the amount of electronics and modules in these trucks, an electrical gremlin would be hell to find. Hopefully that isn't your issue.
My luck, I'll get water on it and make it multiply!
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Old Sep 19, 2018 | 12:12 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by robwcormack
My luck, I'll get water on it and make it multiply!


There's oddly very few image results for "gremlin water", so I settled on a Mogwai because it's really just a pre-gremlin. Lol
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Old Sep 19, 2018 | 12:25 PM
  #14  
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Sorry for the poor photo quality, but here is the rear passenger side wiring. It may help determine where things could be going wrong.
Attached Thumbnails Passenger window-photo89.jpg  
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Old Sep 19, 2018 | 01:07 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by robwcormack
What's odd about that though is that they replaced the drivers master switch when I took it in, and it made the back one work. I thought the same thing, that if it worked at the driver it had to be the back. I just can't imagine what else it could be. I though maybe a relay or something, but they didn't change a relay when they did it. Unless there's a relay built in to the master switch, which begs the question what before that relay is causing it to go bad?

When I get home I'm gonna start with the initial suggestion and move that switch to the other side and see if it follows. That'll at least narrow the problem down some.

I hate chasing electrical problems! I had enough of that crap with my jeep wranglers
So I pulled out the wiring manual, slightly wrong on how it works. When you use the drivers switch you apply power straight to the relay in the back door and the window operates. So this basically says the relay is fine since the window operates with the front window switch. When you use the back door switch, it does exactly the same thing controlling the same relay. The power to the back switch is provided by the child lock out switch on the driver door switch. So either the rear door switch is bad or the power is not being sent back from the front door. The child lock out also provides the power to the rear passenger door, so if that one is working, that kind of cancels out that not supplying power. I would swap that rear door switch with the other and check the plug on that rear driver side passenger door.
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Old Sep 19, 2018 | 01:38 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Gordy49913
The power to the back switch is provided by the child lock out switch on the driver door switch. So either the rear door switch is bad or the power is not being sent back from the front door. The child lock out also provides the power to the rear passenger door, so if that one is working, that kind of cancels out that not supplying power.
If power weren't being sent back from the front door, wouldn't that mean that the driver switch for that window wouldn't work? And I can't remember off the top of my head, does the driver switch override the child lockout? I'm gonna stop till I see what happens swapping the switches from one side to the other in the back. If I put the one not working in the other door and it works I know it's either the master switch again or something in between. If it doesn't work I still need to put the working one in on that side and see if it works with it I guess.
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Old Sep 19, 2018 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by robwcormack
If power weren't being sent back from the front door, wouldn't that mean that the driver switch for that window wouldn't work? And I can't remember off the top of my head, does the driver switch override the child lockout? I'm gonna stop till I see what happens swapping the switches from one side to the other in the back. If I put the one not working in the other door and it works I know it's either the master switch again or something in between. If it doesn't work I still need to put the working one in on that side and see if it works with it I guess.
No, you could still control the rear window. When you use the master window control, it supplies its own power to the rear window relay. The lock out switch is keeping the kids in the back seat from messing with the windows, not you in the front. It won't be the master switch unless its the lock out switch itself, but if the rear passenger window works and the rear driver window does not, then the master switch is eliminated.
When you pull out that possible bad window switch, make sure and look at that plug, I am betting you have a bad connection.

Last edited by Gordy49913; Sep 19, 2018 at 03:16 PM.
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Old Sep 19, 2018 | 09:03 PM
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So the plot thickens this evening. Neither one of the back switches work apparently. So that leads to the lockout switch I guess. I just dont understand why the same part would have gone bad twice in 3 years
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Old Sep 19, 2018 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by robwcormack
So the plot thickens this evening. Neither one of the back switches work apparently. So that leads to the lockout switch I guess. I just dont understand why the same part would have gone bad twice in 3 years
I would pop the master switch out and check the plug for a loose wire. I'm having a hard time believing the switch is bad. I'll look at the wiring book to see what feeds that circuit
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Old Sep 20, 2018 | 12:00 AM
  #20  
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I really know nothing about this, but I had a thought. I have seen mechanical lockouts on the back side of the rear doors. You flip it so kids can't open the door. Don't know if our trucks have that or not along with the driver side switch. Something to check anyway.
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