Work in a body shop for a week. And you'll realize that other makes have just as many paint issues, as people claim Ford to have.


2016 Silverado bumper. Less than 20k miles

 

Only chips I have is on the underside of the hood..where the rubber pads hit when the hood is closed. Haven't decided if I will just touch it up or touch it up and hit it with some paint protection film.

 

Yes ive been a painter for Hall dealerships on the east coast before moving to vegas. These arnt stone or rock chips, they look like bubbles that have popped. The one on the hood is a chip but the others are bubbles that are coming up everywhere

 

Id touch up all exposed areas. Oxidation sucksssss.

 

In your previous post, you seemed pretty sure they were chips. Being a painter for a dealer, I'm sure you've worked warranty before. What has your dealer said about the "bubbles. " I've seen bubbles in factory paint quite a bit

 

Sorry to hear about the paint chips already on a brand new truck.

For me, my 2016 magnetic paint color has held up really well after 6,000. I'm very **** and haven't noticed any yet (surprisingly). I had one small scratch on my back bumper that I was able to use touch up paint on and buff out.

The paint seems MUCH stronger than my 2010 Tundra - Just looking at it would cause it chip or scratch.

This may all change once I install wheel adapters but so far I've been impressed with Fords paint.

Anyway, hope you find a resolution that is acceptable.

 

Hi, what did you do to have your color matched bumpers protected?

 

If they are rock chips, State Farm is one of the few insurance companies that covers those and it falls under "road debris".

And for those who paint, the best way to help prevent future rock chips on something you're refinishing is to use epoxy primer and base right over the epoxy.

 

That is for glass. Not paint.



Epoxy primer is great, but depending on your application is not always the best choice. If you have all the time in the world? Sure epoxy is the best. But most collision shops can't afford to wait the induction period, or the flash off time of half an hour, to an hour. So the best way to prevent rock chips time wise ,is to flex your sealer, and clear coat. And activate your basecoat. I do all 3 on any paint job I do, when I'm not using epoxy. I use epoxy primer over chrome. It adheres great. Haven't had a complaint yet.

 

Unless something changed in the last two years, SF covers road debris and I have an all over to show for it.

Yes, epoxy is generally too slow for a body shop. I can tell you that it will all but solve rock chip issues from re-occurring. Whether one wants to take the time to use is up to them.