I have a 2015 F150 and a 2015 navigator and both have very similar microsoft sync systems and nearly identical 3.5lL ecoboost powerplants so I thought I would ask if anyone has any ideas...
I used my remote start a few days ago and when I pressed the brake upon entry the blower motor cut out then back on but blew hot and it threw a P0245 code and the AC compressor quit coming on. The only 2 things I did were do a remote start and change the sun visor as it had stopped working with homelink and vanity mirror lights. the sun visor vanity lights now work as does the homelink but the AC compressor is not kicking on and it continually throws the P0245 code even after resetting the code (right after reset). I noticed that after doing a remote start I didn't get cold AC and noticed the check engine light after this as well.

I checked the relay for the AC compressor by switching it with the relay right next to it as they are identical but it made no difference. I checked several fuses and nothing. I also replaced the turbo wastegate control solenoid, checked the plugs and the wires (it's right on top of the manifold and no way possible for the wires to get damaged by the exhaust)

Showing the wire and plug in perfect order

with the solenoid removed
but still get the P0245 code shortly after reset.

Ideas? Would the remote start somehow mess up the PCM when I pushed on the brake?

Thanks,
Philip

 

I doubt that the remote start and the brake pedal being pushed had anything to do with your issue. The DTC points to a wiring problem or a faulty turbocharger wastegate regulating valve solenoid. Since you changed the valve, it is fair to say the problem is likely a wiring issue. Just because the wiring looks okay doesn't mean that it is. A poorly crimped pin in a connector or pinched wire somewhere could easily be missed by a simple visual inspection. You need to use a multimeter and start checking circuits.

 

OK so just checked the wire from the pcm at the plug for the solenoid and am getting only .71 volts?? should be 12 right??

None with the switch off and .71 with the starter button activated and fob in proximity but not running.

 

MY battery seems to be discharging rapidly and under 12 volts while testing so I am going to replace the battery now as well. I would assume the voltage to the solenoid should be 12 volts but I am not sure if it's not running.

 

OK so new battery didn't make any difference and I will have to research how to test the circuit to the PCM. Any ideas?

 

With an ohmmeter you need to check resistance between the solenoid connector pins and the corresponding connector pins on the PCM. You would need an electrical schematic showing the pin-out of the PCM. Since you have not provided any vehicle info nobody can help you. At a minimum, you need to tell us what the model year is, the engine type (it obviously either a 2.7L or 3.5L EcoBoost), and trim level. If the wiring is okay then the resistance should be 0 or close to 0.

 

Thank you for taking your time with me.. Ok will look for the pin-out diagram as soon as I get home. Its a 2015 3.5L ecoboost motor in a 2015 lincoln navogator. Will ohm out the wire between the pins and the solenoid plugs also.

 

OK so after testing the circuit and finding nearly 0 resistance I tested the PCM and found that it was not sending the proper output to the solenoid. I then checked the fuse which looked OK but after doing a continuity test on the PCM fuse I found that it was bad but not burned out. It intermittently would give continuity but for the most part did not. I replaced this fuse and all is well. It is fuse #79. I am mad at myself for not testing the fuse sooner. I have had a fuse do the same exact thing in my 99 powerstroke. Thank you all (52Merc) for the help in my search and hopefully anyone else with a similar problem will CHECK the fuses for continuity first before assuming you know everything!!