Looking for something simple and in this price range. I have replaced all speakers and added 10" pioneer sub beneath rear seat...small one. I have Forscaned the output flat but using a tone generator the response is a bit uneven. I have 6.5" club rear door, 6x9 JBL club component door, Alpine tweeters
I'm leaning toward the Rockford Fosgate one as it can run without being vehicle specific and tie in between the amp and the radio on the harness. The other is for Chrysler vehicles after further research. Any other brands better in the price range?

 

Please clarify "using a tone generator the response is a bit uneven. ". What are you using to measure the frequency response? Define what uneven means?

Also, am I understanding this "6x9 JBL club component door, Alpine tweeters" as you replaced the jbl component tweeters with alpines or are the JBL 2-way and you are also running alpine tweets?

Your profile doesn't state what vehicle you have or factory audio system so its hard to recommend a DSP for you. Right off the bat, the axxess dsp is junk so cross that off your list. I would only recommend the DSR1 is you have the factory amplified sony system. Based off the second to last sentence in your post, I am assuming you dont have a factory amplified system. In that case, also cross the DSR1 off your list. Grab a Dayton 408 DSP. It is a top quality DSP at half the price of the DSR1 and does more than either of the dsp's you listed above.

But, before you add another component, you might want to understand the factory system a little better and also explain how you have your current speakers configured. Just as an FYI, factory non amplified trucks do not exhibit bass roll off on the front channels. Ford uses passive crossovers at the tweeter and is the only form of frequency manipulation. Despite what many on this forum believe, an oscilloscope proves this and there is significant documentation providing additional evidence. Further, the front channels are full frequency, the rears are not. Music is not recorded front and rear, it is recorded left and right. You should only be taking signal from the front channels and then using the dsp to route sound accordingly.

 

"JBL club component door, Alpine tweeters" 2 sets of tweeters in the front ?

 

I replaced the JBL tweeters with the Alpine. The alpine has its own crossover. I made a low pass for the door speaker to match the tweeters crossover. The Alpines will play down to 1000 hertz where the JBL tweeter wont go below 4000. Looked to bring more of the vocals up from the door. I flattened the response in forscan. I'll look into the Dayton. My plan was to just cut into the harness I bought for the Clarion amp for the door speakers for the DSP, maybe use it to send the signal to the sub. I take it the rear doors are still attenuated after the forscan change?

2017 XLT with 8" screen, non sony

 

My non-Sony system sounds OK and has pretty good bass in the front doors for oem 6x8's. The rear doors sound like not much highs or much lows. Mostly upper mids to upper mid-bass it seems. The tweeters in the A pillars sound horrendous. I keep bass turned up about 80%, mids about 60%, treble about 70%. Probably clipping the front door speakers at 24/30.

 

 

I think the old mule needs the ears checked. The clue? Having OEM speakers and turning the equalization way up. I'll bet the distortion is horrendous.

 

The rear speakers are designed to sound that way. Even in competition vehicles, it's called rear fill. They are crossed over to create an ambience effect. The rear speakers aren't there to create a second sound stage for rear passengers. The only time you should be able to hear your rear speakers is when you turn your front channels completely off.

 

Can you define how you measured the response in your first post?

Not sure what you flattened with forscan. There was nothing to flatten in the first place since you have a non amplified vehicle.

No tweeter, even the highest end 25mm tweeter can play that low. If you made a low pass for the mids to reflect that 1000 hz figure, you have more than likely cut a huge portion of the frequency response completely out.

You need a dsp to time align so you can bring your crossovers back up again. Time alignment will bring the vocals out of the door and onto the center of the dash.

Can you please list all of the components of your system? Sounds like some other things need to be sorted out as well.

 

Flatten the EQ in forscan. I tried other EQ's available but 0 seems best. I used a tone generator on my iphone and ran a slow sweep. To my ears the bass is strong around 300 hz?? (trying to recall) and the volume at around 3500? it gets louder and holds it on the way up. There is like 3 plateau's of volume but the lows are not clear. That tweeter is supposed to play down to 1000 hz but when I checked through its crossover it did but its volume from 1800 on up was best, that was where I built my low pass crossover for the front doors. Using a tone generator, the volume is nice and flat across that point by ear. I may need to break out my old radio shack sound level meter. I ordered that Dayton DSP.

Better off pulling sub signal from that DSP compared to the connector in back pillar?