My 2015 2.7 ecoboost has had 4 oil pans and STILL LEAKS OIL!!!!!
#11
SSM 47265 - 2014-2019 Various Vehicles - Equipped with a 2.7L and 3.0L GTDI Engine - Oil Pan Leak.
Some Ford and Lincoln vehicles equipped with a 2.7L or 3.0L EcoBoost engines may exhibit an oil leak from the engine oil pan RTV seal. Replace the oil pan by performing the published Workshop Manual (WSM) service procedures. After removing the oil pan, it is suggested to allow the crankcase to drain overnight to minimize the chance of residual oil contaminating the crankcase sealing rail. Remove all traces of old RTV, clean the engine sealing surface with only Motorcraft® Metal Brake Parts Cleaner then wipe with Motorcraft® Metal Surface Prep Wipes, and allow to air dry as directed in WSM, Section 303-00, RTV Sealing Surface Cleaning and Preparation. If possible, after the new oil pan is installed, allow the new RTV sealant to cure for 4 hours before refilling the engine with oil. Ford is investigating this concern. Monitor OASIS for future updates.
Some Ford and Lincoln vehicles equipped with a 2.7L or 3.0L EcoBoost engines may exhibit an oil leak from the engine oil pan RTV seal. Replace the oil pan by performing the published Workshop Manual (WSM) service procedures. After removing the oil pan, it is suggested to allow the crankcase to drain overnight to minimize the chance of residual oil contaminating the crankcase sealing rail. Remove all traces of old RTV, clean the engine sealing surface with only Motorcraft® Metal Brake Parts Cleaner then wipe with Motorcraft® Metal Surface Prep Wipes, and allow to air dry as directed in WSM, Section 303-00, RTV Sealing Surface Cleaning and Preparation. If possible, after the new oil pan is installed, allow the new RTV sealant to cure for 4 hours before refilling the engine with oil. Ford is investigating this concern. Monitor OASIS for future updates.
Last edited by tmcolegr; 07-07-2018 at 05:13 AM.
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#12
To further comment on this issue, if someone has previously used a scotch bright pad or another type of abrasive disc to clean the gasket surfaces and has polished them to a mirror finish, the leak cannot be stopped as the RTV has nothing to adhere to. Hence Ford's warning to only use Motorcraft® Metal Brake Parts Cleaner then wipe with Motorcraft® Metal Surface Prep Wipes.
NOTICE: Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges, which make leak paths. Use a plastic scraping tool to remove traces of sealant.
NOTICE: Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges, which make leak paths. Use a plastic scraping tool to remove traces of sealant.
Last edited by tmcolegr; 07-07-2018 at 05:09 AM.
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#14
Senior Member
Well.. mine still leaks. First two leaked on the drivers side this one leaks back by the bell housing. Otherwise the truck is near perfect. If i end up pulling the driveshaft, crossmember and pan i will use a loctite product.. or cut a gasket for it and know what i have. RTV and 200 degree oil and plastic pans just stinks.
on a bench with the block upside down i could get the RTV to work. Underneath the truck, sliding the pan on, it is a tight fit and not a good spot to use RTV..
on a bench with the block upside down i could get the RTV to work. Underneath the truck, sliding the pan on, it is a tight fit and not a good spot to use RTV..
Last edited by Chitwoodfrms; 07-07-2018 at 06:17 AM.
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digitaltrucker (07-07-2018)
#15
Senior Member
Welcome to the forum. Maybe try another dealer. Had a chrysler mini van years ago, after many re-seals and pans, they ended up having to replace the block.
Here is another post, that may or may not have helpful info in it:
https://www.f150forum.com/f118/2-7-o...-leaks-392270/
Here is another post, that may or may not have helpful info in it:
https://www.f150forum.com/f118/2-7-o...-leaks-392270/
#16
The 3.5 (haven't checked the 2.7) has switched back to an aluminum pan mid year for 2018. It would seem to me that the switch is a sign of Ford acknowledging that the composite pans have proven to be an issue
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#17
I don't buy 4 pans either. Multiple failed attempts at resealing I do buy. Any tech that doesn't truly understand how to seal with motorcraft sealer will repeat the same mistakes and fail each time. I also buy the idea of a defective block. I just had a head replaced on my motorcycle due to a slight oil weep coming right through the casting on the head. These aren't aircraft parts getting full NDT on every one of them. Defects do happen.
Agree on the different dealership option.
Agree on the different dealership option.
The following 2 users liked this post by mikeinatlanta:
digitaltrucker (07-07-2018),
idrive (07-07-2018)
#18
Thanks for all the feedback! Sorry everyone’s so uptight about things going wrong, but this is real! I agree the seal is the problem! They won’t allow the oil to completely drain or they won’t allow the epoxy to bond before adding oil back in. I’m no longer confident in the dealer technicians. I have filed a case for ford and they refuse to do anything. They literally scanned a brochure for ESP plans for me to purchase. I have expressed my frustration to the dealers and am now onto ford cooperate lawyers. Yet, nothing will be done. I am going insane doing the same service without any result in fixing it!
#19
Go to another dealer.
#20
If after changing 4 oil pans, isn't it common sence that the issue is not the oil pan?? The likelyhood to have 4 defective oil pans in a row is statistically impossible.... I would be more concerned about the mating sealing surface, or bolt torque pattern or spec