I installed Fox 2.0 with coil overs a month ago, unfortunately the front is 5/8" higher than the rear and I need to do the work again to adjust the coil overs lower. I want some information to create a target finished height goal/goal range measurement.

I'll do the work with a half tank of fuel (23 gal tank) and no misc stuff in the bed.
I have the lightest duty OEM leaf springs #A (there are four...A, B, C, D).

I'm not towing, hauling, or otherwise routinely loading up my truck, pretty tame lifestyle these days. But I would use the truck for anything, moving, camping, etc. So some minor amount of rake seems to make sense.

I've measured on several "flat" surfaces over the last month and believe the left and right sides both front and rear are sitting at virtually the same height (far less than 1/8" difference if any at all). I'll re-measure and focus on the front left/right for ANY difference. I measure from top of the rim to the bottom of the fender wheel well.

#1 Do I allow for me sitting in the drivers seat? Like a 1/4-1/2 turn? Or do I keep the same setting on both coil overs?
#2 A little rake seems to make sense? What other information would I use to determine? I'm guessing 1/4"?

 

I care about this on my race car. I do not on my truck.

Since it's purely for looks, set it wherever you think it looks best.

 

i personally wouldnt be tearing into the front for 5/8" of adjustment. Put aa 1" lowering shackle in the rear, alot less cumbersome and no additional costs of re-alignment.

 

He's saying the front is 5/8" higher than the rear. Why would you further lower the rear?

 

I’ve adjusted the Fox’s on my truck more times I’d like to admit, I’ve also done it for as little as a 1/4 inch adjustment.

its not a 1 for 1 and since every truck weighs slightly different, person X’s results might be slightly off from Person Y.

It will need an alignment after you adjust them. Raising the rear is also an option and easier. But I can have the shocks pulled, adjusted, and back on in an hour and a half max by now.

 

fair, 1" lift shackle

 

I believe I'd just use a taller rear block. I stuck in a 2" block in place of the OEM 1.25" when I leveled mine. The Halolift Alumas gave me just short of 3" of lift. After I put the 2" block in, I'm .25" of level, with the rear end high.
Just the way I did it, easy peasy, no muss, no fuss.

 

Hmmm...thank you.

The guy who sold me the shocks, we used his tools and installed together as a condition of the sale, but this one isn't his fight LOL

Doing the work is difficult for me, my tools are in storage and regardless I have to buy and borrow some equipment to do this (spring compressor, different jack, some of the hand tools) I need to make an exact needed tool list and watch a video to review what I did with him.

Every time I park I get slightly different height measurements. Frustrating.

I'm guessing to have 0"-1/4" rake so if I carry light junk around routinely it probably won't squat. Sounds like I'm trying to lower front about 3/4" for 1/8" rake...if it comes out slightly lower/higher that's my range of 0"-1/4" that I can live with so I don't have to do it again.

I think there is a fraction over 2" of threads showing under the bottom collar. I'll measure both on the truck to see how close they match. I see how it is somewhat not a precise science. It's one thing to decide exactly how much to lower the height, but it's guesswork on how to achieve that exact number.

 

More work than needed when you can just swap for a larger block.

And op, if it were me, I’d also just throw a slightly bigger block in the rear instead of having to re do and rebalance the front.

 

you should have 2 5/16 inches of thread showing under the coil spring perch.

ive documented a few times I made adjustments and what they turned into in real life results. I like to keep an inch of rake or a tad more…these trucks already look nose high, so even when level, they appear to squat a bit.

ill see if I can find my measurements and results