Kicker Audio
Part No: VKL3Z18808A
The parts guy took my VIN and looked in computer and said there were no accessories to add and not to order it because if it wouldn’t work I’d be stuck with it because I couldn’t return it. When I look the part up it says it works with 17-20 F150 with seven speakers is he just being a crappie parts dude or what.
F-150 2019-2020 KICKER AUDIO UPGRADE AMP & SUBWOOFER KIT
Has anyone added this to your truck I was at the dealership today and inquired at the parts counter. I’ve got a 20 F150 XLT SCAB with Sirius/Sync center stack with seven speakersThe parts guy took my VIN and looked in computer and said there were no accessories to add and not to order it because if it wouldn’t work I’d be stuck with it because I couldn’t return it. When I look the part up it says it works with 17-20 F150 with seven speakers is he just being a crappie parts dude or what.
Probably because its not current, nor are they still in production.
The original kit had a DSP amp and a powered subwoofer.
Great simple add on, the DSP made a huge difference in the sound quality of even the factory speakers.
But no longer in production
The original kit had a DSP amp and a powered subwoofer.
Great simple add on, the DSP made a huge difference in the sound quality of even the factory speakers.
But no longer in production
I have a B&O sync system in a 2019 Lariat coming from a ford explorer with a custom Pioneer setup. The sub does not have enough knock for me and will be temporally be installing another subwoofer either a Pioneer 12" or a 10" Kicker-box.
Sub = | $175 & | $159 | https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/P...unt/TS-A3000LB
or a @ 399.99 - Kicker -
Subwoofer size: 10" // RMS power: 180w // Frequency response: 25-120 Hz // Crossover: 12dB/octave Lowpass 50–120Hz; 24dB/octave Highpass @ 25Hz // Input sensitivity: Low level - 250mV-10V; High level - 1V-40V // KickEQ boost: variable to +6dB @ 40Hz
Sorry (cut and past from my notes: ) - hopefully this will hold me over till late spring until I can get around to changing all the speakers out and deciding on another head unit.
Its cold out and I'm not looking forward to pulling panels but the stock system is so below basically basic
flat sounding and rattily.
Sub = | $175 & | $159 | https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/P...unt/TS-A3000LB
or a @ 399.99 - Kicker -
Subwoofer size: 10" // RMS power: 180w // Frequency response: 25-120 Hz // Crossover: 12dB/octave Lowpass 50–120Hz; 24dB/octave Highpass @ 25Hz // Input sensitivity: Low level - 250mV-10V; High level - 1V-40V // KickEQ boost: variable to +6dB @ 40Hz
Sorry (cut and past from my notes: ) - hopefully this will hold me over till late spring until I can get around to changing all the speakers out and deciding on another head unit.
Its cold out and I'm not looking forward to pulling panels but the stock system is so below basically basic
flat sounding and rattily.
I had this in my 2018 XLT. It was a custom order truck and I added it to the build so it was a factory installed item. I did it because I didn't want to mess around with tapping into factory wiring or running power for an aftermarket setup. I also liked the hidden location.
I don't consider myself an audiophile, but I do feel it's worthwhile to spend money on better sound. I have some stuff at home that a real audiophile would sneer at, and other stuff that I think even the pickiest people would have some amount of respect for. Given that, I think I have an idea of what sounds good and what doesn't but am also realistic and not one of those guys who is going to automatically say any OEM option is garbage.
My expectations for this Kicker setup was something that would help fill in the low end leaving the other speakers to better handle the mids and highs. I didn't expect mirror shaking bass or anything mind-blowing. With the right song, it actually sounds really good. Unfortunately, there are some frequencies that it absolutely butchers for some reason - and they aren't the lowest ones. For example, Hotel California off of Hell Freezes Over has a series of opening drum beats that aren't particularly low, but are very pronounced. The Kicker could not handle them and it just sounded like a distorted mess trying to reproduce them. It was a 50/50 shot of whether it would sound good or not. The issue was, when it didn't sound good it was really really bad - it sounded like something was very wrong. I've seen others had the same experience I did, so I don't think it was my specific unit. Adding polyfil did help somewhat, but it seemed crazy to have to modify the unit in this way.
Again, I don't think my expectations of an OEM 8" sub were unrealistic. For example, my 2020 has the factory B&O system with a very similar 8" sub and I think that system sounds pretty good when you consider you're in an F-150 and not a Mercedes. Sure, some music sounds better than other music on it but it doesn't fall on its face reproducing anything.
I'm not one to ever jump to going aftermarket, but in this case I would.
I don't consider myself an audiophile, but I do feel it's worthwhile to spend money on better sound. I have some stuff at home that a real audiophile would sneer at, and other stuff that I think even the pickiest people would have some amount of respect for. Given that, I think I have an idea of what sounds good and what doesn't but am also realistic and not one of those guys who is going to automatically say any OEM option is garbage.
My expectations for this Kicker setup was something that would help fill in the low end leaving the other speakers to better handle the mids and highs. I didn't expect mirror shaking bass or anything mind-blowing. With the right song, it actually sounds really good. Unfortunately, there are some frequencies that it absolutely butchers for some reason - and they aren't the lowest ones. For example, Hotel California off of Hell Freezes Over has a series of opening drum beats that aren't particularly low, but are very pronounced. The Kicker could not handle them and it just sounded like a distorted mess trying to reproduce them. It was a 50/50 shot of whether it would sound good or not. The issue was, when it didn't sound good it was really really bad - it sounded like something was very wrong. I've seen others had the same experience I did, so I don't think it was my specific unit. Adding polyfil did help somewhat, but it seemed crazy to have to modify the unit in this way.
Again, I don't think my expectations of an OEM 8" sub were unrealistic. For example, my 2020 has the factory B&O system with a very similar 8" sub and I think that system sounds pretty good when you consider you're in an F-150 and not a Mercedes. Sure, some music sounds better than other music on it but it doesn't fall on its face reproducing anything.
I'm not one to ever jump to going aftermarket, but in this case I would.
Last edited by js312; Jan 28, 2023 at 11:08 AM.
I ended up going with an LLJ t harness and a JL powered 400w 12" sub sounds awesome sub fits behind the seat and the install is clean. I tend to shy away from kicker if you want sound quality over hard hitting subs.
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I got a ‘19 with the B&O system. The sub was not the best and I found a Pyle dual 4 ohm voice coil sub around the same power rating for the factory amp. It sounds WAY better and I’m at under $100 for the sub and polyfill. I did have to make a small 3/4” spacer but I had that laying around the house. Well worth it. Along with changing out my center dash speaker to a high quality 3.5” 2-way speaker (4 ohm), I’m happy with the sound now.







