I have installed bed extenders in my last 2 trucks and find them very useful. I was not impressed with the factory option so I am ready to purchase another Amp Research one for my new 16 Lariat. I searched the forum but couldn't find a clear answer to mounting brackets, drilling holes and installing screws in the aluminum bed. The bed extender has 2 brackets on either side requiring 3 screws each. Is it not acceptable to screw into the inside of the aluminum bed do to corrosion issues between the steel screws and aluminum bed? I have not looked but I assume they make aluminum screws? This is not a high stress item so weak aluminum screws would probably work. So what is the correct way to do this install? I have the spray in bed liner so the brackets would be insulated from the bed. Only the screws (#8 sheet metal screws I think)would penetrate the inside of the aluminum bed.

 

A better method would be to use CRES / stainless steel screws either 304 or 316. The marine industry uses stainless fasteners on aluminum boats for the same corrosion reasons. You shouldn't have any problem finding these at local hardware stores.

 

As mentioned above use stainless screw and put no locks/anti seize on the screws to keep them from getting stuck and having to be cut off.

 

Thanks all, I was worried about the potential for galvanic corrosion between the aluminum bed and the steel or stainless steel screws I may use to screw in the brackets. Maybe I'm over thinking this.

 

SS screws are not a recommendation by Ford. I've attached photos of the Q222 bulletin WRT fastening to or through aluminum

 

304/316 and aluminum will still corrode at contact, especially when exposed to salt. My boat trailer says so.

 

that's what I was getting at and why I've attached the bulletin as FORD agrees with your boat trailer.

 

That is some good information. I think I may try aluminum self tapping screws. I know they are soft and have a tendency to twist the head off but I will be careful. From the list provided, aluminum pop rivets would be the other option.

 

+1 with sk8r. I would use 3/16 or larger pop rivets. Those hold pretty firmly.

 

AMP makes a no-drill adaptor arrangement which is what I used on my 2015 F150. Cost $20.