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Run a 10 or 12 Gauge wire from the battery along the passenger frame rail and up into the box. You can fish it through from underneath by removing the tail light. The trick then is to find a waterproof socket that you can attach, just keep in mind that it will attach to aluminum and would be a good idea to run a ground wire to the frame instead of relying on the mechanical bond through the screws, and use coated screws so you don't corrode the aluminum.
at the battery you can use a 20-30 amp fuse or breaker.
Run a 10 or 12 Gauge wire from the battery along the passenger frame rail and up into the box. You can fish it through from underneath by removing the tail light. The trick then is to find a waterproof socket that you can attach, just keep in mind that it will attach to aluminum and would be a good idea to run a ground wire to the frame instead of relying on the mechanical bond through the screws, and use coated screws so you don't corrode the aluminum.
at the battery you can use a 20-30 amp fuse or breaker.
I agree with acdii, but want to reiterate that you should not run the ground wire back to the battery's negative terminal. That bypasses the battery management system. Do as acdii said and ground it to the frame.
Suggest you look at various motorcycle accessories for this. Lot's of quality waterproof options. The sockets commonly called "bmw sockets" are most durable for 12V appliances vs cigarette lighter style.
If you do decide to mount a 12V socket you don't need to remove the tail light to run the wires. Lay on the ground and look up into the huge void between the outer bed wall and the inner bed wall. You could run a 2" pipe through that area. :-) You can buy a weatherproof 12V socket from McMaster Carr - 12V Weatherproof Socket This unit has a plastic nut that holds it in place - you don't have to use screws and worry about dissimilar metal issues.
Here's a picture of that area where I ran a line for my airbag setup.
Air line behind taillight area.
Last edited by B-ManFX4; Jun 24, 2018 at 09:52 AM.
Or, you could just use a 4 pin or 7 pin adapter off your trailer connection to give you a 12v socket. I bought the one pictured at Walmart
While this is an excellent Idea, on the 15+ trucks with Smart Trailer connector, this wont work as the truck needs to see an actual trailer connected to it before power is supplied. Unless that pulg has a trailer simulation circuit in it, I highly doubt it would work.
Reason I suggest taking the two small screws out and pull the light is it just makes it easier to fish the wire to the top rail and out through the opening already there, but if the plan is to drill a hole and insert a socket, then going from underneath works too.
Mike, thanks for the suggestion on BMW sockets, been looking for something I can use to attach to my topper, so will give a search for those.
While this is an excellent Idea, on the 15+ trucks with Smart Trailer connector, this wont work as the truck needs to see an actual trailer connected to it before power is supplied. Unless that pulg has a trailer simulation circuit in it, I highly doubt it would work.
Reason I suggest taking the two small screws out and pull the light is it just makes it easier to fish the wire to the top rail and out through the opening already there, but if the plan is to drill a hole and insert a socket, then going from underneath works too.
Mike, thanks for the suggestion on BMW sockets, been looking for something I can use to attach to my topper, so will give a search for those.
I plugged it in and turned on my parking lights. 12v with the truck off. 13.8 with the truck on. It drives my 200w inverter...