Help with a Leveling kit
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This thread got very confusing.
I don't know if everybody now agrees or disagrees that adding Ford performance shocks has no ill effect to warranty claims.
I don't know if everybody now agrees or disagrees that adding Ford performance shocks has no ill effect to warranty claims.
Last edited by 16IngotFX4; Nov 12, 2020 at 06:01 PM.
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You're just defining OEM to extend to something that it isn't. OEM, by definition, is Original Equipment Manufacturer. In this case, Ford. As delivered to a dealer, the vehicle is stock and the warranty applies to all the parts (per the warranty booklet), originally installed in the assembled vehicle. Note that Ford isn't the OEM of every part installed in their vehicles as delivered. For instance, tires, airbags, etc., are actually purchased from other OEM's and installed in the final product that Ford warrants.
So to be clear, the vehicle is "stock" (or Originally Equipped) as delivered from Ford to the Dealer. In many cases, dealers begin adding on components. Window tint, spray in bedliner, aftermarket wheels, lift/leveling kit, etc., none of which would be covered under Ford warranty, but each may carry their own separate warranty from the installer or OEM.
So to specify the vehicle itself as either being OEM or not OEM is really not an accurate use of the term, when "as originally equipped" (or stock) is what you really imply. If you want to leave off the "M", then your definition would apply, the vehicle as "Originally Equipped".
Anyway, slow work day and I'm bored, so at least it's fun having a debate that's not political . . . .
So to be clear, the vehicle is "stock" (or Originally Equipped) as delivered from Ford to the Dealer. In many cases, dealers begin adding on components. Window tint, spray in bedliner, aftermarket wheels, lift/leveling kit, etc., none of which would be covered under Ford warranty, but each may carry their own separate warranty from the installer or OEM.
So to specify the vehicle itself as either being OEM or not OEM is really not an accurate use of the term, when "as originally equipped" (or stock) is what you really imply. If you want to leave off the "M", then your definition would apply, the vehicle as "Originally Equipped".
Anyway, slow work day and I'm bored, so at least it's fun having a debate that's not political . . . .
By definition, all equipment on the truck that it originally sold with from the manufacturer is OEM. Even if a third party is contracted by Ford to build the part, when Ford puts that equipment on the vehicle originally from them, it is OEM.
By your definition, the turbos that come on stock EcoBoost trucks are not OEM because Borg-Warner makes them, but that's just silly
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I guess I again disagree with the way you are using and defining the term.
By definition, all equipment on the truck that it originally sold with from the manufacturer is OEM. Even if a third party is contracted by Ford to build the part, when Ford puts that equipment on the vehicle originally from them, it is OEM.
By your definition, the turbos that come on stock EcoBoost trucks are not OEM because Borg-Warner makes them, but that's just silly
By definition, all equipment on the truck that it originally sold with from the manufacturer is OEM. Even if a third party is contracted by Ford to build the part, when Ford puts that equipment on the vehicle originally from them, it is OEM.
By your definition, the turbos that come on stock EcoBoost trucks are not OEM because Borg-Warner makes them, but that's just silly
For the record, I'm not defining the term. The definition already exists.
"What Is an Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM)?
An original equipment manufacturer (OEM) traditionally is defined as a company whose goods are used as components in the products of another company, which then sells the finished item to users."So the finished product itself (Ford F-150) is never OEM. It is the product of assembling parts from OEM's (Borg Warner, Goodyear, Takata - well, not anymore, Motorcraft, etc., etc.).
A stock car, in the original sense of the term, is an automobile that has not been modified from its original factory configuration.
So Ford uses parts from OEM's, assembles them on a line and delivers the car, "Stock" to its dealers.
Last edited by Nuke83; Nov 12, 2020 at 05:24 PM.
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This is from Wikipedia, specifically addressing automotive OEM's. And while we've completely hijacked the OP's thread, know that Magnusson-Moss protects you from having warranty declined for simply using aftermarket parts.
Automotive parts
When referring to auto parts, OEM refers to the manufacturer of the original equipment, that is, the parts assembled and installed during the construction of a new vehicle. In contrast, aftermarket parts are those made by companies other than the OEM, which might be installed as replacements after the car comes out of the factory. For example, if Ford used Autolite spark plugs, Exide batteries, Bosch fuel injectors, and Ford's own engine blocks and heads when building a car, then car restorers and collectors consider those to be the OEM parts.[citation needed] Other-brand parts would be considered aftermarket, such as Champion spark plugs, DieHard batteries, Kinsler fuel injectors, and BMP engine blocks and heads. Many auto parts manufacturers sell parts through multiple channels, for example to car makers for installation during new-vehicle construction, to car makers for resale as automaker-branded replacement parts, and through general merchandising supply chains. Any given brand of part can be OEM on some vehicle models and aftermarket on others.
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I have Fox 2.0 coilover level. Struts up front, shocks in rear. Same exterior appearance as the Ford tuned or Roush tuned.
The truck is much better controlled. No more "wallowing". Its not night and day difference as some have said in other threads. The initial ride was slightly firmer. Though either it "broken in" or I just got used to it real fast. Not much of a difference driving down the highway, but big difference is off road, whether just driving through the yard or down a 2 track in the woods.
I bought Fox because of the aluminum bodies (I live in rust belt). I had Bilstiens on a different truck and they looked like garbage after 1 winter. Plus IMO, on that truck anyway, the bilsteins rode very stiff. They are progressive valving.
I paid $1100ish with stone guards for rear shocks from S3 or Stage3 or something like that.
BTW its a 2" level. Starts a little higher, but after a week or 2 is settles down to 2".
The truck is much better controlled. No more "wallowing". Its not night and day difference as some have said in other threads. The initial ride was slightly firmer. Though either it "broken in" or I just got used to it real fast. Not much of a difference driving down the highway, but big difference is off road, whether just driving through the yard or down a 2 track in the woods.
I bought Fox because of the aluminum bodies (I live in rust belt). I had Bilstiens on a different truck and they looked like garbage after 1 winter. Plus IMO, on that truck anyway, the bilsteins rode very stiff. They are progressive valving.
I paid $1100ish with stone guards for rear shocks from S3 or Stage3 or something like that.
BTW its a 2" level. Starts a little higher, but after a week or 2 is settles down to 2".
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The higher you go up front the more need for a rear lift is necessary, to maintain rake or to sit level. Otherwise it will appear to squat in the rear.
If you go as high as 2.5" upfront you're diving into the category of less forgiving ride/handling qualities. If you go above 2.5"...well you just shouldn't.
Common rear end work is as simple as removing the spacer that is there now with one a little taller (the one you choose is the one necessary to achieve the desired look). You probably need new u-bolts to make up the height difference.
FOX products come with a really expensive sticker. ha
They do make a good product but you're more paying for a name than quality.
Bilstein shocks are knows to rust beyond recognition in the span of a single winter if you live in a salty region.
A good option that is recommended by many is the Ranco Quicklift coilover. New shocks/coils. Fully assembled and ready to be installed.
If you go as high as 2.5" upfront you're diving into the category of less forgiving ride/handling qualities. If you go above 2.5"...well you just shouldn't.
Common rear end work is as simple as removing the spacer that is there now with one a little taller (the one you choose is the one necessary to achieve the desired look). You probably need new u-bolts to make up the height difference.
FOX products come with a really expensive sticker. ha
They do make a good product but you're more paying for a name than quality.
Bilstein shocks are knows to rust beyond recognition in the span of a single winter if you live in a salty region.
A good option that is recommended by many is the Ranco Quicklift coilover. New shocks/coils. Fully assembled and ready to be installed.