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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 03:07 PM
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Default help diagnosing issue

2016 5.0 F150 XLT
Today while driving on the highway I hear loud squealing noise then went away. I got off the highway and noticed smoke coming from under the hood. Pulled in the driveway at home and coolant was leaking out. Turned off the car and checked under the hood and noticed most of the coolant was gone but still some in the reservoir. A few weeks ago I kept t hearing what I describe as road noise or slight groan while driving. Am I safe to drive to a shop 5 miles away if I add water to coolant reservoir? Do I have a bad water pump?

Thanks for any advice.
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 03:10 PM
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Sounds like a bad water pump. Yes, drive it to the shop. Don't let it warm up, just drive it and keep an eye on the temp. If you still have coolant in the system, it will be fine for that short drive, IMO.
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 03:18 PM
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You didn't mention that you got high coolant warning messages and the truck went into limp mode so you likely have not caused any permanent damage. Before driving it anywhere, I would want to know what is causing the loss of fluid and the squeal. My guess, without any more information, would be a failure of the water pump seal. Once coolant gets on the belt drive it will slip and make a high pitched squeal.

If you are going to have someone else work on the truck, I would recommend towing it. The tow will be a lot less than a water pump R&R (if that is the problem) and then you don't chance further damage.
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 03:26 PM
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All the gauges were operating as normal when I pulled in. What about the grinding/moaning over the past several weeks? Possibly a prelude to failure today?
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by colljo1
All the gauges were operating as normal when I pulled in. What about the grinding/moaning over the past several weeks? Possibly a prelude to failure today?
My guess is that you actually suffered a bearing failure which it turn caused the seal failure and that moaning/grinding noise before was the bearing failing.

Once you loose that much coolant, it is difficult to refill the system and get the air out. The approved method is using a vacuum coolant replacement tool. Your cooling system may end up with a lot of air pockets if you just try to refill the system through the top tank. Driving it, even a short distance, is a gamble. You may possibly get away with it, but do you want to chance it.
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 06:18 PM
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Appreciate the insight.
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 06:33 PM
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So does that mean we can't do a coolant change on this truck ourselves??? On engines hard to 'burp', there's typically a bolt that you can remove. If not present, then all air pockets should eventually make their way up to the reservoir, over several dozen cold-hot-cold cycles. Never heard of not being able to do a DIY coolant change, but I'm curious to hear from an actual tech, and just random owners . Thanks.
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 06:57 PM
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One more question. So do I need to replace timing belt if indeed it’s a water pump failure?
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by colljo1
One more question. So do I need to replace timing belt if indeed it’s a water pump failure?
I have same truck and just did WP. Your truck has timing chain with no specified service interval.

While yer in there though, replace the 10$ thermostat and of course all the necessary orings.

Vacuum coolant refill tool makes refill super easy with no air left in system.

Last edited by Blackbuzzard; Apr 15, 2020 at 07:09 PM.
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by elptxjc
So does that mean we can't do a coolant change on this truck ourselves??? On engines hard to 'burp', there's typically a bolt that you can remove. If not present, then all air pockets should eventually make their way up to the reservoir, over several dozen cold-hot-cold cycles. Never heard of not being able to do a DIY coolant change, but I'm curious to hear from an actual tech, and just random owners . Thanks.
You definitely can do a coolant change yourself. The process of removing air from the system if you don't use a vacuum tool involves 5 to 6 start-heatup-cooldown cycles before the air is out of the system. This is according to the Work Shop Manual. Page 8 is where refilling without a vacuum tool starts. I thought this was a little long for someone already experiencing issues.

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Coolant Drain and Refill.pdf (449.4 KB, 163 views)
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