help diagnosing issue
If you know how to relieve the tension off the accessory drive / serpentine belt so you can slip the belt off the pulleys, then you can spin the water pump pulley by hand to check it. The WP pulley should turn smoothly and feel solidly planted. If it feels rough/gritty/noisy and/or has any play when rocking it then the shaft seal/bearing is bad. While the belt is off, you can also check the ac compressor pulley, belt tensioner pulley and idler pulley to make sure they spin freely / quietly as well. Look around with a flashlight to try to find exactly where the coolant is leaking from. WPs usually have a tell tale weep hole to let you know when the shaft seal / bearing is on the way out. Also look for a gasket leak where the WP mates to the engine block. Check the plastic on the sides of the radiator for hairline cracks. Check coolant hoses. They usually leak or blow out at the ends. Make sure the belt is re-routed correctly when you put it back (diagram is usually posted under the hood or in engine bay somewhere).
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Haven't had to do the 150 yet. Ford dispensed with cooling system taps a long time ago. The heat/cool cycle for my 2003 Escape was about ten minutes each, 6-8 times.
I just bought a pressure brake bleeder tool since I have 2 vehicles that need the brake fluid replaced. When time comes for a coolant change, I'll invest the money in a vacuum coolant kit. For me, it just makes sense.







