Help, another offset thread
I just received my new 20x9 wheels. They have a 0 offset.
They are still sitting in the garage and I'm wondering if I should have gone less aggressive with a +15 offset instead.
Truck is a 2016 Screw.
installing a Readylift 2.25" front and 3" rear level at same time.
Tires are currently 275-60-20 KO2
Am I limiting myself with these wheels? I am hoping to move up to a 34ish tire eventually. Maybe a 275-65 or 295-60.
Can anyone provide some feedback and maybe some pics?
Thanks!!
They are still sitting in the garage and I'm wondering if I should have gone less aggressive with a +15 offset instead.
Truck is a 2016 Screw.
installing a Readylift 2.25" front and 3" rear level at same time.
Tires are currently 275-60-20 KO2
Am I limiting myself with these wheels? I am hoping to move up to a 34ish tire eventually. Maybe a 275-65 or 295-60.
Can anyone provide some feedback and maybe some pics?
Thanks!!
I have 2.25" Ready Lift lift with 20x9 +20 and 295/60/20 tires and believe I could have went with the +1 and most times wish I would have. I'm pretty confident you will clear you current tires and will only rub at full lock and/or inclined if you move up in size.
Question, why a 3" block for rear, imo too much rear lift (1.75") your only losing half inch of rake and losing a lot of travel on your rear shocks.
Question, why a 3" block for rear, imo too much rear lift (1.75") your only losing half inch of rake and losing a lot of travel on your rear shocks.
Thanks Cajun,
Do you have a pic of your setup?
The reason I went with the 3" rear is because I don't want a nose high look when towing my boat. I've seen some pics here of that setup and it seemed ok.
Do you think that the ride will be negatively affected when not towing?
Do you have a pic of your setup?
The reason I went with the 3" rear is because I don't want a nose high look when towing my boat. I've seen some pics here of that setup and it seemed ok.
Do you think that the ride will be negatively affected when not towing?
OP you will probably clear with that combination. With mine I rubbed at anything over 20 degrees of turn but my tires are a good 30mm wider than yours with aggressive side lugs. If you decide to go larger tires you will likely run into rubbing issues.
Was the rubbing due to the front crash bars?
Would it be a simple job of spreading them or swapping the crash bars to other side?
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Originally I was rubbing on my front AND rear crash bars, as well as catching the inner fender liner on the driver's side which gave it the baseball-card-in-the-spokes effect. Lifting got them away from all that sufficiently that it would only rub on the crash bar if I was to hit a hole or awkward terrain while at full lock and moderate to high speed.
What I've discovered now is the passenger side tire will rub ever so slightly on the lower air dam, and at full lock in reverse it bends it up and does the same thing the driver's side did on the fender liner. I'm either going to heat it with a heat gun and bend it out slightly so it doesn't make contact, or trim an inch off each end. I'll start with the former and see what success I have. Interestingly enough the driver's side air dam clears the tire.
I'm not a fan of modifying the crash bars in any way. They were engineered to perform a specific function in a specific manner and you compromise their effectiveness by dicking with them. Here in Canada it's doubtful you'd run into insurance or liability issues by doing so but that might be a different matter south of the 49th. That's a judgment call for you to make. Swapping them apparently gains you an extra 1/2" of clearance but again, consider that they weren't designed to collapse in that direction in a collision. Also by spreading them you have ZERO control over what bends and where. Will the crash bar bend or will the receiver it sits in? Will you stress the bolts instead? All things to consider.
This video was pretty instrumental in my decision to not dick with the crash bars whatsoever:
Last edited by HeavyCal; May 29, 2017 at 02:31 PM.
Thanks Heavycal,
The rubbing that you are referring to is with the 305's that you are running now, correct?
I don't think that I will go wider than a 295... so that mat mitigate the issue somewhat I would think...
Thanks so much for your comments.
The rubbing that you are referring to is with the 305's that you are running now, correct?
I don't think that I will go wider than a 295... so that mat mitigate the issue somewhat I would think...
Thanks so much for your comments.
Originally Posted by Red-line
Thanks Cajun,
Do you have a pic of your setup?
The reason I went with the 3" rear is because I don't want a nose high look when towing my boat. I've seen some pics here of that setup and it seemed ok.
Do you think that the ride will be negatively affected when not towing?
Do you have a pic of your setup?
The reason I went with the 3" rear is because I don't want a nose high look when towing my boat. I've seen some pics here of that setup and it seemed ok.
Do you think that the ride will be negatively affected when not towing?
Normal street driving you'll be fine with the 3" block. I understand not wanting to be nose high while towing, I'm right at 5k+ with my boat plus it's tongue heavy, it squatted bad even before lift, I went with ride rite airbags, I'm just about level when not towing and also when towing plus it firms it up and greatly helps handle the load.

