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Old 02-13-2019, 08:23 AM
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I wish there was a manual hub option, like I have on my F-250 and F-350.
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Old 02-13-2019, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by G-Force
I wish there was a manual hub option, like I have on my F-250 and F-350.
THAT is the way to go. Only trouble I can see is that someone would have to put the phone down, and might muss up their pleated front dockers.
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Old 02-13-2019, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by fordtrk
I replaced the the left IWE a couple months ago. Vibration hum was gone now it's back on the other side. I now ordered the RCV elimination kit. I know it puts more wear on the CV but that's what they are made for is rotation. Chevy and Dodge still turn the front end like Ford did in the old days.
I'm going to try it after talking to several people and they had no issues after. I ordered them just waiting for delivery.
I was wondering what the other OEMs were doing as I never had this issue with my Toyotas. I'm assuming Ford came up with this lovely system for mpg reasons.
Old 02-13-2019, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by MNSportsman
I was wondering what the other OEMs were doing as I never had this issue with my Toyotas. I'm assuming Ford came up with this lovely system for mpg reasons.
Ford has been using this on at least 11th gen on up, maybe earlier. Too bad they can't afford some injunears that could come up with something better. It may be because of mpg, but I think it has more to do with convenience for the soccer club crowd. Likely more people now-a-days a manual system would totally baffle them. Not only would they have to injunear a reliable system, it would also require different wheels, brakes, and likely something else.
Of course they "could" use SuperDude wheels/brakes/etc. I'd like manual hubs/TC myself.
Old 02-13-2019, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by G-Force
I wish there was a manual hub option, like I have on my F-250 and F-350.
Technically you have this ability. Right now I am on a manual locking system in my 18 but for different reasons then just wanting to.

I keep vacuum on and hubs unlocked 100% right now by taking the vacuum solenoid out of the vacuum system loop. Pulled both line ends off the solenoid and used a simple adapter that came with my vacuum pump brake bleeder kit and attached the two lines directly together..Now vacuum is always applied with no solenoid in charge of the actuators. If I want to lock them I'd have to simply open the hood and pull the two hoses back apart. Technically that is all that is needed to lock the hubs but I wouldn't recommend just leaving two open vacuum lines chillin under the hood so id plug them at least.

I know that is not exactly manual locking hubs in the traditional sense but it is a manual way to unlock and lock them lol. The biggest difference here being my system could fail based on the integrity of the vacuum system as a whole. A cut in a vacuum line and obviously I lose control but either way you at least have the option to control what your hubs are doing if everything is kosher and it allows you to lock your hubs if wanted without having to engage 4A and driving with the Multi-plate clutch engaged. Just throwing it out there.
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Old 02-13-2019, 07:27 PM
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I may be interested in some kind of a tune. Which 5 star package did you go with ? Do you have an aftermarket intake or exhaust ? I wondered if I could benefit from just the tune rather than changing my exhaust. I am running a k & n filter right now. Do you now have to burn 93 octane fuel only ?
Old 02-14-2019, 06:02 AM
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My main problem lately is that the spring or what ever that holds the iwe in 4x4 is weak. Keeps slipping popping slamming out and back in under load. Plus the humming.
Old 02-14-2019, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by MNSportsman
I was wondering what the other OEMs were doing as I never had this issue with my Toyotas. I'm assuming Ford came up with this lovely system for mpg reasons.
Yes, around 2004. I seen a video on YouTube when Ford was introducing the iwe. The big thing was suppose to be for fuel mpg. Headaches ever since.
Old 02-14-2019, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by fordtrk
My main problem lately is that the spring or what ever that holds the iwe in 4x4 is weak. Keeps slipping popping slamming out and back in under load. Plus the humming.
Do you have a video of what that sounds like?
Old 02-14-2019, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by shawnd
I may be interested in some kind of a tune. Which 5 star package did you go with ? Do you have an aftermarket intake or exhaust ? I wondered if I could benefit from just the tune rather than changing my exhaust. I am running a k & n filter right now. Do you now have to burn 93 octane fuel only ?
I went with 4 tunes. 93 Performance only, 93 Perf/tow, 89 Performance only, and 89 Perf/tow I currently still have the 93 performance only on it since I went with that first and am giving it an honest test.

I have a flowmaster 40 replacing the factory muffler and ran dual outs but nothing before the cats was changed. I have the regular factory intake, I don't want to install anything that knowingly makes a whistle noise when I already have a whistle noise that is just out of the drive me bat shi** crazy threshold and I don't want to test it.

You will benefit from just the tune no question more than any aftermarket part, in fact without it you aren't doing much of anything with exhaust mods and intake mod. Go check out their dynos they post regularly on facebook and the ones on the website. They show comparison of each tune versus stock set up, and the tuned versions are almost always stock everything else and they state that on the dynos. You should be able to tune to that aftermarket intake to in order to take advantage of it. Cold Air Intakes IMO don't really do anything for a stock calibrated vehicle that can not take advantage of the increased airflow. Yea airflow is good but without a tune that can actually use that increased air for gains, you are just kind of getting more air which may feel "different" to the driver or may not but not sure if you can call it HP gains.

Yes you need to run 93 octane if you have a 93 tune or you could mess up the engine among other things. The gas in the truck should at least be the octane of the tune or higher then the tune but never ever lower. S if 91 is all you have available do not get a 93 tune, get an 89 octane tune(Next octane down as far as Five Star Tunes available octanes go).
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