Forscan EQ Settings?
Anyone messed around with these 6 or 7 different settings (727-01-02)? Been trying to search forum to see if there is any audio improvements to playing around with these settings. Thanks!
This is something I've wanted to mess with and just haven't as of yet. I was kind of under the impression that unless you add a subwoofer, it might not make a lot of difference. Since I have the base 6 speaker setup, I'm not sure if any changes will really make anything sound better.
This is something I've wanted to mess with and just haven't as of yet. I was kind of under the impression that unless you add a subwoofer, it might not make a lot of difference. Since I have the base 6 speaker setup, I'm not sure if any changes will really make anything sound better.
It does nothing of any value. Without being able to see the frequency response with an RTA, you should leave forscan alone. In the stock form, non amplified oem trucks have no bass role-off and are full frequency from <20hz to >20,000hz. This is 100% verified and confirmed. The whole, "flattent EQ with forscan" is not accurate. On non amplified vehicles, there is absolutely nothing to flatten. Not even with 100% volume is the output attenuated. If you want to make adjustments to improve your sound, use the trable, midrange, and bass setting in the headunit. If you want to add an amp, always add a dedicated DSP like the Dayton 408. Finally, if adding an amp for a sub or full system, NEVER use the rear channels for any signal source. The rear channels have a 50hz highpass crossover. Further, music is recorded in stereo left and right. Music is not recorded in front and rear. The rear channels are simply a processed copy of the front channels. Again, the front channels are 100% full signal and provide all the necessary input signal for non amplified and amplified upgrades.
It does nothing of any value. Without being able to see the frequency response with an RTA, you should leave forscan alone. In the stock form, non amplified oem trucks have no bass role-off and are full frequency from <20hz to >20,000hz. This is 100% verified and confirmed. The whole, "flattent EQ with forscan" is not accurate. On non amplified vehicles, there is absolutely nothing to flatten. Not even with 100% volume is the output attenuated. If you want to make adjustments to improve your sound, use the trable, midrange, and bass setting in the headunit. If you want to add an amp, always add a dedicated DSP like the Dayton 408. Finally, if adding an amp for a sub or full system, NEVER use the rear channels for any signal source. The rear channels have a 50hz highpass crossover. Further, music is recorded in stereo left and right. Music is not recorded in front and rear. The rear channels are simply a processed copy of the front channels. Again, the front channels are 100% full signal and provide all the necessary input signal for non amplified and amplified upgrades.
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It does nothing of any value. Without being able to see the frequency response with an RTA, you should leave forscan alone. In the stock form, non amplified oem trucks have no bass role-off and are full frequency from <20hz to >20,000hz. This is 100% verified and confirmed. The whole, "flattent EQ with forscan" is not accurate. On non amplified vehicles, there is absolutely nothing to flatten. Not even with 100% volume is the output attenuated. If you want to make adjustments to improve your sound, use the trable, midrange, and bass setting in the headunit. If you want to add an amp, always add a dedicated DSP like the Dayton 408. Finally, if adding an amp for a sub or full system, NEVER use the rear channels for any signal source. The rear channels have a 50hz highpass crossover. Further, music is recorded in stereo left and right. Music is not recorded in front and rear. The rear channels are simply a processed copy of the front channels. Again, the front channels are 100% full signal and provide all the necessary input signal for non amplified and amplified upgrades.
DHM - so you agree that using FORSCAN to convert the front left and right signal to RCA 4V output, then go to a Dayton 408, is the way to go?
Originally Posted by cbbennin
DHM - so you agree that using FORSCAN to convert the front left and right signal to RCA 4V output, then go to a Dayton 408, is the way to go?
Personally, I would run highlevel to dsp. The Dayton and pretty much any good dsp converts high to low with ease. Forscan acm changes can cause more problems than they are worth. No degradation in signal quality by using high level. For-11ck high level front channels to Dayton. Use Dayton to route signal to your speakers. Keep it simple.
Gotcha - thank you. I completely missed the fact that the Dayton had High Level inputs. Way easier to wire, also. I'm going to try and fit the Dayton behind the dash somewhere, I got the bluetooth adapter and wired remote control. Then run RCA back to my amp, and speaker wire back to the factory harness. I am planning on using the factory speaker wires for my setup...Appreciate the quick response!






