Not that it happens often but when dealing with tint that blocks "heat" the glass absorbs the heat which could result in glass failure. Does not happen as often on vehicles as it does on residential windows but it can happen especially if you live in a hotter climate.

 

Did you look at those links I posted earlier

Of course don't confuse UV and thermal energy, they are 2 very different things

Moon roofs, it is buyer beware since some have cracked, the only thing I would ever do on a roof is the air 80 and leave the inside cover open when parked or in the sun for prolonged periods. More of the cracks have been when people go very dark on the roof.

Think of it this way, you install a tint that provides 100% heat rejection. 100% heat is transmitted through the glass, hits the tint, and 100% is reflected back out the glass. It is this double transmission that can over stress glass.

The clear film only blocks 40% so you're not rebounding as much back through the glass.

Leaving the inside cover open also prevents a lot of heat from building up in the air between the cover and the roof.

Or, you could put a mirror tint on the outside of the glass on the roof if you really want to cut down that heat plus its on the roof so no one will ever see the tacky mirror reflection.

 

Excellent information fellas. Thanks!

 

After a lot of research and looking for qualified installers, found one locally that seems to have the qualifications and references I looked for.....


Link below is to the 3M product they recommend, still debating staying legal on %, but the product comes in a legal % that I can live with. Comments are very positive on the product as well. Will NOT be filming the moonroof or windshield.....at least initially


I KNOW there are lots of other product options out there, but this will not compromise cell reception and has a reasonable heat rejection.


http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...omotive-Films/

 

What are you doing on the windshield? If nothing on moon roof and windshield, your interior is still going to heat up.

You can use a clear tint (that blocks almost 50p of the heat) on these 2 areas

http://northamerica.llumar.com/choos...r-window-films

 

Actually a conscious decision NOT to do either moonroof nor windshield. I may revisit that and add it later, but we live at 5,600 ft. vs. Phoenix and just looking to better match rear tint AND add some heat rejection on sides and rear.....BTW using installer recommendation NOT to do those two areas.....for now!!


Read all your 4js8wh and thanks for the good info.....getting my baby this week and on goes the Tonneau, etc.....and the initial tint job....will move from there....


Love the forums.....

 

i did decide to go with a 3m product on the front windows and the back windows, with the additional shade on the original windows it now looks close to limo tint without using limo tint, and it blocks more heat, you can definitely feel the difference.

it also helped that i put 3m crystalline on the windshield, allows 70% light through so you can't really tell there is any tint to it, but...
CR70 Crystalline 70
Visible Light Transmitted 69% Total Solar Energy Rejected 50% Infrared Rejection* 97%

97% heat rejection on the dashboard might help some long term issues with thinner lighter dashboards on the 2015 and some warping issues i have seen some threads on.

 

Getting my fronts done to match the backs. They didn't know if backs where any heat since they are not tinted but the glass is actually colored. The owner just got is dodge done the same way. If still seem shot will get the backs done.

 

3m crystaline series. i am a 3m dealer. the 90 series is crystal clear and rejects 40 percent of the heat gain

 

Thank you for necro-ing a 4.5 year dead thread to provide us this useful information.