Hi folks,
I have a 2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost with sync 3. The sync screen and radio stayed on when I shut the engine off, removed the key and opened the door. I started the engine back up and the sync screen went black and radio shut off. It has been several weeks and the screen/radio have not started working again.

Things I have tried/checked:
Fuse is not blown
Soft reset (Power button and right-seek button press and hold) did not resolve the issue
Disconnecting the negative battery lead for 30 minutes did not resolve the issue
Using Forscan:
-No APIM DTCs
-FCIM DTC: U0155:00-0A (Lost Communication With Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module)
-FCIM DTC: U0253:00-0A (Lost Communication With Accessory Protocol Interface Module)
-FCIM DTC: U0401:82-0A (Invalid Data Received from ECM/PCM A))
-FCIM DTC: U0452:82-0A (Invalid Data Received from Restraint Control Module)
-I can read the APIM firmware with Forscan 3.4 (I do not have the recommended cable so did not try writing new firmware)
-I can read the APIM AS BUILT configuration and have rewritten with a saved configuration
-I wrote all 0s to the AS BUILT configuration to see if other modules would recognize the invalid config (still communicating with the APIM). After doing that, there were various DTCs related to communication with the APIM and invalid configuration that showed up. I rewrote the saved AS BUILT, cleared the DTCs and the only ones that returned were the ones listed above.
-I am not able to perform an APIM self-test. The log message reads: The vehicle conditions are incorrect.
APIM #: HP5T-14G371-BAG

Does this sound like a blown APIM? Can the AS BUILT and firmware configurations still be retrievable when the module "dead"?
Thanks very much for any suggestions/help

 

Silly question.. Any other quirky electrical issues going on? Sometimes batteries going bad cause glitchy electronic things. Just a thought, if you happen to be on a battery more than a couple years old.

 

No other electrical issues that I've noticed. The battery is original, but still seems fine. The engine cranks with no issues, even in some of the -25 degree weather we've had lately.

 

Battery. 6 years on a battery , it’s done. Probably the least expensive way to avoid throwing parts at it. If after the battery the condition persists Cary on with professional troubleshooting.

 

I'd bet a steak dinner with drinks that your battery is causing ALL your problems. JK
You are way past due. I know it's easy to spend others money. If / when you get a new battery, have the blm reset with the dealer, or a shop that has the basic equipment to do it, make sure.

 

I'm guessing an APIM problem. That seems to be the only component having an issue. I also have a 2016 XLT, 2.7, with SYNC3. I still have the original battery, but I keep it on a battery tender as I don't drive my truck on a regular basis. There have been lots of APIM problems, and I had my APIM replaced under warranty, then I updated mine to add NAV (originally had a non-NAV APIM). I did not see a reference to whether or not the OP had NAV or not, but a non-NAV APIM from a junk yard is about the same price as a battery. A NAV APIM is a bit more. Check Car-parts.com, search under "computer box not engine." The hardest part is determining which SYNC module to purchase (make sure you match 4" or 8"). A quick search shows prices from $100 to about $400 for HP5T-14G371-BAG. Of course, just my opinion and where I'd spend my $$ given the details in the original post.

 

Thanks a lot for the advice and information. Since the battery is six years old, I think I'll start with that...it's due anyway. The truck never has trouble starting, so I never thought to even check the voltage, let alone a load test. It's only reading 12.1 volts when not running. There seems to be a battery shortage around here, along with a lot of things, so hopefully finding one tomorrow.

 

I would guess battery at 6 years as a possibility too, not a total loss it's not. Just opening the door to release the hood there is a lot of current beginning to flow from the battery on my truck preparing to to wake up the system for a possible start. The The battery voltage will read lower because of the current draw as the system is coming to life. On my truck it takes about 3 to 5 minutes from a load of 6 amps as it steps down to zero current. Please keep us informed so we can all learn

 

Report back, let us know the results.

 

Put a new battery in and reset the BCM with Forscan, but no change. Same codes and screen/radio are still not working. It was worth a try. Now I'll source an APIM from the US (car-part, ebay, etc.) as they seem to be hard to find here in Canada for a reasonable price. I'll get one and report back Thanks for the help, guys.