The OBD2 check is only looking for CELs. The dealer’s scan tools can see a tune has been installed and that can be a reason for a warranty refusal but emissions wise they’d never know. There is argument that a tune could cause emissions failure via sniffer test but I’ve yet to see it on anything done professionally. Home/self tuning guys will usually fail but if you pay somebody like Oz to tune it I’ve yet to see one fail

 

I've decided to go with a 18+ F150 Mani, I mean at less then 100$ on Ebay for brand new Take offs its a no Brainer! And the Oz omega tune (Witch sounds like the right tune for me). and harness with catch can. I may up date when im done! and no i live in BC canada so we can do w.e the f we like no imisions testing here!!!

 

Good luck, and I am sure the community would appricate a dedicated DIY post.
I've been on the wait list for 8 months and this seems like the only option

 

Worked perfect! My truck is running Beautifuly. There are a couple little hurdles you'll need to solve. the Evap soloined has no where to mount on the gen 3 manifold so I just used a piece of 3/8th fuel line to plumb from the solinoid to the port on the manifold, The IMRC vacume outlet is moved from the back of the manifold to the front all i did for that was bend it to the front and stuck it on with a hose clamp couse its smaller now. I also went with a Catch can for the panenger side bank PCV becuse that port is also in a different spot and the hose for that is a formed hose and wont realy work. Also you need to get the Harness adapbters for the IMRC on the Gen 3 Manifold they moved to different connectors and instead there being a IRMC position solinoid on each bank there is only one. HALF THE PARTS HALF As LIKELY TO FAIL again! and you must Get a Tune to retune the IMRC becouse of this change I went with the OMEGA tune from OZ tuning and they'll sell the SCT tuner with the tune. It is a FLEX fuel tune so you DO NOT need to worry what fuel you are using in you truck running this tune. As far as everything else everything is interchangagle injectors and all. The most difficult part of the hole job was getting the harnes dicontected from the stock manifold! there are 5 plugs on the back that are a massive pain to reach 2 harnes support tree style clips holding the harness too it, but once you get the support clips off iether by cutting or pulling them out you can pull the manifold out a bit more making the the lower plugs accesable the hardest being the MAP sensor plug, at the lowest point on the intake on drivers side, There are three harness adapters for these plug one for each IMRC actuator and one to adaped the 2 solinoids from each bank of the old one into the one solinoid on the gen 3 manifold. I've attached a picture of how i changed the Vacume plumping. There may be a better way to do it... but this worked great. I didnt't pull the fuel rail untill after i already pulled the manifold off and then put the fuel rail back on after tourqing the new manifold down. May or may not be the right way but thats what i did. And to stop yourself from getting sprayed with fuel you need to take the fuel pump fuse out and run the truck till it stalls... this didnt actualy work for me. the truck wouldn't start with the fuse pulled, dont know why but the fuel lines still had pressure.

It was exactly as expected with my old manifold the little stub for the imrc soloid had broken off one bank. sorry i dont have any pictures of all the work or and before and after, or pictures of the broken manifold. I'm Very happy with this FIX and the Tune has the truck running better and smoother then it ever has plus a decent power uplift.

Dont delete the IMRC there's no reason to Expecaily if you use your truck as a truck and not a race car.

Hopefully this helps some of you guys out!
parts and tune
gen 3 manfold brand new Take off , Ebay 89$
tune and tuner harnes, cratch can 870$
time - 4 hours

 

I know I'm a bit late but I'm about to install an 18 gt manifold on my 2016 f150. Thank you for your post it has helped me a lot in planning out the install. On the 16 truck manifold it appears there is a imrc connection on the back. Is this left unplugged when installing the gt? Thanks

 

If electrical, it depends on whether you run the harnesses with IMRCs active or if you delete them (I recommend delete and lock out).

If vacuum, well you don’t want any open vacuum lines. All should hook up mostly normal except the IMRC vacuum supply line which is the small port on the back of the stock manifold and the front of the 18. If you retain function, that needs hooked up. If you delete, cap it

 

Everything I've read iv seen says dont delete the imrc unless you're willing tp give up more low-end torque, you'll need a harness adapter kit for all the electrical connections. And you'll also need to modify the manifold for the MAP sensor the gt intake does not have a spot for the MAP sensor

 

Very little gain from keeping them active. They’re far more hassle and expense then they’re worth. 11-14 did just fine without ‘em as do 21+, 15-20
don’t need them

 

Very little gain from keeping them active. They’re far more hassle and expense then they’re worth. 11-14 did just fine without ‘em as do 21+, 15-20
don’t need them


MAP will need 2 holes drilled, there’s YouTube videos on it to make it easier and many of us use a little rtv to make sure it seals well

 

Hey man, sorry to be late to the party, but I just have a quick question:
Did you just re-use your old MAP sensor? I'm in the exact same boat as you and am looking at a new 2018 takeoff manifold from ebay that doesn't include the MAP sensor. I presume it's a "re-use" situation since I see mentioned above regarding drilling holes to mount it. I'm just getting all my ducks in a row before I pull the trigger and have my mech do this swap for me. Lots of good info here guys, much appreciated.