There is another thread on here where people were lowering their trucks and a competent shop found that with a 1.5" drop the drive shaft length bottomed out inside of the transmission. Here's the link: https://www.f150forum.com/f118/lower...5-f150-291534/

I recommend reading the whole thread and possibly contacting Livernois Motorsports to discuss their findings. The issue is raised on post 56 and it gets more interesting from there... plus there are some nice trucks in the thread.

Good Luck!

 

Second the power running boards they come down much farther and are a real step as opposed to the fixed boards. I would take the wife to a dealership and have her try them on a truck there. If they work would be less invasive mod without affecting the drivetrain or suspension.Good luck

 

Another vote for the power running boards. As has been said, they come down much
further and you have a wider platform to step on. My 85 yr old mother loves them, she
said how easy it was to get in and out of my truck. I also like the looks much better.

 

Keep in mind that power running boards and snow don't always work together well..

But if they could of been gotten on a SuperCab I would of ordered them.. As it is I have gotten used to the truck and don't use the fixed boards to get in it and really should remove them.. They seem to get in the way more than they help..

Note I got the 4X4 this time for driving in snow also,, getting too old to chance getting stuck.. Miss the nice low ride of the 4X2 2002, and the confortable seats it had..

I'm still thinking of removing the rear blocks to drop the tailgate/ bed loading height the 11/4" inches..

 

There is quite a bit that goes into dropping a 4x4 15-17 F150. As we have documented in other threads, we have our F150 dropped with a 2/4" kit with aftermarket wheels and our performance parts (obviously:thumbs. When we did drop the truck we took note that our factory driveshaft was pushed out of place yoke to seal. We had to have a custom fabricated driveshaft made and installed.

This is something that you should explore prior to making any decisions on lowering a 4x4!

 

Do you know if I dropped it evenly 2" front and back if that would cause any problems. The 2" drop puts it right where my 02 Silverado is now which is a good height. I am curious if that leaves enough suspension travel front and rear. Thanks for all the information everyone.
Mike

 

Removing the rear block is easy. I would recommend the OP try this first and see if this gains you enough drop to satisfy you. It costs you nothing except a little time and you can simply return it to stock if you don't like it.

 

I know the old saying to each his own, but have never liked a truck that was lowered. To me they were very uncomfortable and defeat the purpose of buying a truck. Here is my 16 Larait and it's just about where I want it. I've done a Ranch Quick Lift, MTB Rims, 34x12.5x18 BFG KO2 tires, K&N CAI, Lund catch all floor mats, Lund bug deflector, LED headlights, LED fog lights, Roll n Lock Toneau cover, and Flowmaster antenna.
By the way it raised my front end after tires and leveling kit up 3 3/4 inches, so very happy with the way it looks. The front and rear are exactly the same height.

 

While I like the looks of a lifted truck, for most of us it isn't practical, and does not make the truck handle better on the road. Most of us, lifters, and lowerers hate the factory rake, that I think we can agree on. So some of us choose to lower the rear to get rid of it, and others choose to lift the front.

But the OP didn't ask for opinions on lifted versus lowered, he has a specific case, that lifting does not apply too.

Back to the OP, pulling the blocks doesn't really improve access, but the power running boards do. My last truck had the fixed boards like the lifted truck above, they were essentially useless to me, and to my short wife. The power boards are very functional, come down far enough to be useful. So as others have suggested I would take a look at a truck with them, let her try them and see what she thinks.

 

Removing the rear blocks will lower the front door access points a small amount. It might be enough to work in this situation. If not, the next step is to pursue dropping the front also. Based on Livernois' comments here, that opens up it's own can of worms. Each individual needs to do their due diligence, go into it with that knowledge, and determine if they are willing to follow through with the necessary changes and expense. The OP is getting that information in this thread.