2015 Leveling kit install
I installed my AS 2.5" leveling kit yesterday and it went pretty easily. Since there I couldn't find a 2015 specific write up, I'm doing a small one. Mine is a 2WD so the 4WD will be different. Several posts had me worried that I would never get the strut studs out and that the lower control arms would have to be removed. That wasn't the case.
Here's my truck before the 2.5AS kit and 1.5 inch rear block:
First off, the instructions from AS didn't apply to me. ALL the size sockets mentioned in the instructions were wrong and I didn't have to remove the control arms.
1) I removed all brake line attchments I could (10mm and 8mm needed), and pulled the hard lines out of the retainers.
2) I took a piece of wire and tied the spindle to the upper A-arm to keep it from pulling on the brake hoses when broken free.
3) I then unbolted the tie rod (21mm), the sway bar end link (18mm) and the upper ball joint. I left the nut barely threaded on at first. I also unbolted the strut bolts underneath the lower control arm (18mm). I removed two of the upper strut nuts completely, but left one barely threaded. This makes it easier after you pop the bottom out. I then removed the tie rod from the spindle.
4 I then wacked the spindle with a small sledge and she popped loosed. Used a pry bar to pull down on the lower control arm and finished unthreading the spidle nut and the wire I had wrapped around the spindle kept it from losing control and held it up.
5) I then used a pry bar to pry the bottom of the strut out of the lower control arm.The top was still held in place by the 1 nut left barely threaded on. I then removed the nut and slid the strut out.
6) I then put the bottom strut mount in a vice and threaded the nut back on the strut bolt until the very end of the bolt was flush with the nut and then beat it about 3-4 times with a ball pien hammer and the popped right out!
7) I then put the spacer on the strut (with blue locktight) and the AS spacers used 17mm locking bolts.
8) Reinstallation is pretty much the reverse of removal except: Wait until you have the strut in and then push the strut bolts back into the lower control arm and give them several good whacks with a hammer. Tightening the nut will finish seating the bolts in the strut. Also use a pry bar to pull the lower control arm down to re-thread the spindle onto the ball joint. It will not reach otherwise, and it would be a lot easier if I had a second set of hands.
I have a neurological disorder that takes away my hand strength and coordination. And even with this obstacle, (with the use of air tools) I got the whole thing done in under three hours. Even without air tools someone else with simple hand tools could do it. You do need a way to get the strut bolts out of struts though. Instead of a vice you could probably do it with a c clamp and a couple of sockets or a ball joint press.
I did install the rear blocks next, but it's the same as any other Ford so no writeup on that.
I'm very proud of the end result. Next up, wheels and tires.
Here's my truck before the 2.5AS kit and 1.5 inch rear block:
First off, the instructions from AS didn't apply to me. ALL the size sockets mentioned in the instructions were wrong and I didn't have to remove the control arms.
1) I removed all brake line attchments I could (10mm and 8mm needed), and pulled the hard lines out of the retainers.
2) I took a piece of wire and tied the spindle to the upper A-arm to keep it from pulling on the brake hoses when broken free.
3) I then unbolted the tie rod (21mm), the sway bar end link (18mm) and the upper ball joint. I left the nut barely threaded on at first. I also unbolted the strut bolts underneath the lower control arm (18mm). I removed two of the upper strut nuts completely, but left one barely threaded. This makes it easier after you pop the bottom out. I then removed the tie rod from the spindle.
4 I then wacked the spindle with a small sledge and she popped loosed. Used a pry bar to pull down on the lower control arm and finished unthreading the spidle nut and the wire I had wrapped around the spindle kept it from losing control and held it up.
5) I then used a pry bar to pry the bottom of the strut out of the lower control arm.The top was still held in place by the 1 nut left barely threaded on. I then removed the nut and slid the strut out.
6) I then put the bottom strut mount in a vice and threaded the nut back on the strut bolt until the very end of the bolt was flush with the nut and then beat it about 3-4 times with a ball pien hammer and the popped right out!
7) I then put the spacer on the strut (with blue locktight) and the AS spacers used 17mm locking bolts.
8) Reinstallation is pretty much the reverse of removal except: Wait until you have the strut in and then push the strut bolts back into the lower control arm and give them several good whacks with a hammer. Tightening the nut will finish seating the bolts in the strut. Also use a pry bar to pull the lower control arm down to re-thread the spindle onto the ball joint. It will not reach otherwise, and it would be a lot easier if I had a second set of hands.
I have a neurological disorder that takes away my hand strength and coordination. And even with this obstacle, (with the use of air tools) I got the whole thing done in under three hours. Even without air tools someone else with simple hand tools could do it. You do need a way to get the strut bolts out of struts though. Instead of a vice you could probably do it with a c clamp and a couple of sockets or a ball joint press.
I did install the rear blocks next, but it's the same as any other Ford so no writeup on that.
I'm very proud of the end result. Next up, wheels and tires.
No vibrations and the ride quality didnt change. It aligned pretty easily according to the shop. It is important to know that the AS kit is offset.. That may have helped
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I just did the same install this weekend, super easy. I didn't have problems with the strut bolts either. 3 or 4 wacks just like you said, didn't even need a vice. I didn't need to loosen the control arm like AS said, just some heavy body weight and a pry bar and got the shock assembly right out.
First side took about an hour and 15 minutes, second side took about 45. Working on a brand new truck with properly torqued parts is a breeze.
I put 35 inch BFG KO2s on and the look great and fit perfect.
good write up.
First side took about an hour and 15 minutes, second side took about 45. Working on a brand new truck with properly torqued parts is a breeze.
I put 35 inch BFG KO2s on and the look great and fit perfect.
good write up.
Yeah working on a new truck it easy... Try getting a spindle loose on a 20 year old truck. It usually takes heat, a pickle fork and beating for 30 mins.. This was pretty easy thank goodness.
I had to CUT the lower strut bushings out with a sawzall. and replace the bushing and replace bolts with grade 8 bolts from home depot.
Then the top nut for the strut assembly was stripped so i had to PLASMA cut the shock out of the coil.
Truck was in the garage for a week before I got it all back together.

