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Engine Flush

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Old May 8, 2010 | 10:54 AM
  #1  
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Default Engine Flush

Hey guys I'm running an '05 w/ 49k miles and I think I am going to change my own oil. I was going to go with dino but am thinking full synthetic may be worth it. Mobil 1 or Amsoil w/ a motorcraft filter. Also going to seafoam it before I do it. My only question is someone on here said you needed to flush the engine before making the change? What are they talking about and do I need to do it?
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Old May 8, 2010 | 11:19 AM
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I wouldn't worry on flushing it. You have low miles and since oils today are superior on keeping sludge from forming, flushing is not worth it. Oh and you can switch from conventional to synthetic any time you don't need to do any flushing.
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Old May 8, 2010 | 11:23 AM
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Ok thanks a lot. I only saw one guy suggest doing it but I want to this right. Just playing it safe.

In my situation how would you guys recommend doing the Seafoam? Just in the gas or in the brake booster and gas? Do i need to burn the whole tank of gas to get the seafoam out before I change my oil?

Last edited by lddrew; May 8, 2010 at 12:34 PM.
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Old May 10, 2010 | 10:35 AM
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Periodic cleanings are a good idea. Search Bob is the Oil Guy website and you'll find lots of people who did recommended changes and has sludge problems.

If you've not done one yet I'd recommend a slower cleaning method rather than a harsher flush like Amsoil or Gunk (BTW,I use Amsoil products myself) . Auto-Rx (www.auto-rx.com) makes a competent cleaner which can be used in the crankcase, transmission and power steering. I and other family members used it for about 4 years and have had no mechanical failures.

Personally, I think its best application might be in the transmission. On my new 06 Expy with 41K I checked the fluids out and it looked clean. But since I didn't know what maintenance the prior owner did, I decided to Auto-Rx the engine, t-mission and P/S. After 1000 miles, engine looks OK, but both the transmission and P/S fluids are much more dirty which shows the Auto-Rx cleaning these systems.
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Old May 10, 2010 | 12:52 PM
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put a third of a can of seafoam in the oil about 100 miles before you change it and the rest of it in the brake booster to clean out the combustion chambers. putting it in the oil will help flush gunk out.
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Old May 10, 2010 | 03:38 PM
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thanks a lot guys i think i am going to seafoam the gas, brake booster line, and crankcase before I change my oil next weekend.
@chelios I've been looking into doing a trans and power steering maintenance and will certainly look into the auto-rx.
thanks a lot guys
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 10:29 AM
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Just to offer up another option....Motocraft Syn Blend. Not full syn and not all dino either but a great blend.

BTW, I do not beleive in any flush, Seafoam or any additives. I have a garage full of vehicles that have topped 200,000 miles with just regular oil changes and not additives.
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 06:59 PM
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yeah i've decided seafoam/additives in a regularly maintained engine is a scam. today's oils have so many detergents in them that there is very little to clean. maybe for breathing life into an old car but not for my DD.
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by lddrew
thanks a lot guys i think i am going to seafoam the gas, brake booster line, and crankcase before I change my oil next weekend.
@chelios I've been looking into doing a trans and power steering maintenance and will certainly look into the auto-rx.
thanks a lot guys
I have an 04 5.4 and I put the seafoam in the PCV hose on the drivers side. It hits the intake right under the throttlebody, so you get better distrabution.
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 11:48 PM
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are the pcv and brake booster line not the same. I thought all the vacuum lines fed all the cylidenders? sorry i;m not as versed in this stuff but im learning. these modern engines are so complicated. i can figure out the 40 year old Buick 225. haha
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