Engine Flush
08-04-2010, 10:29 AM
#12
FEs Rule
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Leavenworth Kansas
Posts: 169
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I would skip the flush and Seafoam. Todays oils and gas are far superior to what your father used. Gas used to gum up because of the lead content. When the gas evaporated it left a film of lead and that was what caused problems in carburetors in the past. Todays fuels evaporate clean which means you don't need any additives to remove residue. I never understood why someone would buy an additive to clean their fuel system when we used to use gasoline to clean car parts. (Yea, I know, I was young and naive back then) Keeping your fuel filter changed should keep you running forever.
I've never believed in miracles in a can. You are wasting your money. If you are at a point you need to clean fuel injectors or remove sludge from your crankcase it is too late for those products anyway.
FWIW, I use Shell Rotella T synthetic in all my vehicles. It has more zinc content for flat tappet engines and plenty of cleaning and protection additives for roller tappet engines. It's not just for diesel.
I've never believed in miracles in a can. You are wasting your money. If you are at a point you need to clean fuel injectors or remove sludge from your crankcase it is too late for those products anyway.
FWIW, I use Shell Rotella T synthetic in all my vehicles. It has more zinc content for flat tappet engines and plenty of cleaning and protection additives for roller tappet engines. It's not just for diesel.
08-04-2010, 01:53 PM
#13
Senior Member
I wouldn't flush the engine.
Remove the oil plug and filter and let it drip for about an hour until it stops dripping.
When switching I pour a quart of the new oil into the engine with the filter and drain plug out and let it run all the way through until it stops dripping. You get a lot of sludge and gunk doing that and you can actually see the oil get cleaner towards the end (engine not running of course).
All synthetic oils say "compatible with all oils" on them (if they can blend it at the oil factory, what little is left will blend in your engine) so there should be no issues with that anyway.
Ford repair manual says NO ADDITIVES just like JackDW says!
Besides, the next time you change the oil any conventional oil will have blended with the synthetic and from that next oil change on the oil will be all synthetic.
One more thing, when changing the oil I put masking tape over the ignition switch and don't remove it until I am done so I or no one else tries to start the engine until it is full of oil etc.
Remove the oil plug and filter and let it drip for about an hour until it stops dripping.
When switching I pour a quart of the new oil into the engine with the filter and drain plug out and let it run all the way through until it stops dripping. You get a lot of sludge and gunk doing that and you can actually see the oil get cleaner towards the end (engine not running of course).
All synthetic oils say "compatible with all oils" on them (if they can blend it at the oil factory, what little is left will blend in your engine) so there should be no issues with that anyway.
Ford repair manual says NO ADDITIVES just like JackDW says!
Besides, the next time you change the oil any conventional oil will have blended with the synthetic and from that next oil change on the oil will be all synthetic.
One more thing, when changing the oil I put masking tape over the ignition switch and don't remove it until I am done so I or no one else tries to start the engine until it is full of oil etc.
03-10-2014, 09:17 PM
#15
Member
Just to offer up another option....Motocraft Syn Blend. Not full syn and not all dino either but a great blend.
BTW, I do not beleive in any flush, Seafoam or any additives. I have a garage full of vehicles that have topped 200,000 miles with just regular oil changes and not additives.
BTW, I do not beleive in any flush, Seafoam or any additives. I have a garage full of vehicles that have topped 200,000 miles with just regular oil changes and not additives.