Undercarriage
I am new to this forum and this is my first post!! I've learned so much from this site and never really thought about signing up till now! Haha
The reason for this thread is that I have 1993 f150, 5L 302 V8 that I'm looking to restore to a neat game day ride. A strong engine that has about 200k miles on it but was so well maintained from the previous owner that it runs like a top. Gotta love a solid 302 right? Well after a some normal and updated PM done, like transmission and coolant flush, differential lubed, belts and hoses and and plugs redone, etc, for my own peace of mind, I really want to get underneath the truck and treat the undercarriage. It looks like it hasn't been cleaned since of the factory lot. I'm gonna replace the shocks and struts after but what chemicals or methods do yall suggest to use in order to get that old built up grease and minor corrosion that have accumulated and stayed on the driveshaft, axles and suspension and such. Also what undercoat do yall suggest to apply owhen everything is as clear as possible? Thanks guys.
The reason for this thread is that I have 1993 f150, 5L 302 V8 that I'm looking to restore to a neat game day ride. A strong engine that has about 200k miles on it but was so well maintained from the previous owner that it runs like a top. Gotta love a solid 302 right? Well after a some normal and updated PM done, like transmission and coolant flush, differential lubed, belts and hoses and and plugs redone, etc, for my own peace of mind, I really want to get underneath the truck and treat the undercarriage. It looks like it hasn't been cleaned since of the factory lot. I'm gonna replace the shocks and struts after but what chemicals or methods do yall suggest to use in order to get that old built up grease and minor corrosion that have accumulated and stayed on the driveshaft, axles and suspension and such. Also what undercoat do yall suggest to apply owhen everything is as clear as possible? Thanks guys.
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Aggies,
I'm assuming you live in Texas (not in the rust belt). Since you do not live where road salt is spread in winter, you do not have to use Por 15. Instead, do what I did.
(1). Wire wheel your entire frame inside and out with a wire wheel or cup on a grinder
(2). Treat entire frame with Skyco Ospho (this product will convert any remaining surface rust from iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate. This will seal the rust and prevent it from rusting any further. Apply 2 coats and wait 24 hours. Your frame will turn a black color if Ospho is properly applied
(3). Paint with a foam brush or spray on Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer (2 coats)
(4). Paint with a foam brush or spray on Rustoleum PROFESSIONAL gloss black or flat black paint (At least 2 coats)
My frame looks fabulous and has held up for years with no signs of rust.
Por 15 is over kill if you don't live above the Mason-Dixon Line !!!!!!
I'm assuming you live in Texas (not in the rust belt). Since you do not live where road salt is spread in winter, you do not have to use Por 15. Instead, do what I did.
(1). Wire wheel your entire frame inside and out with a wire wheel or cup on a grinder
(2). Treat entire frame with Skyco Ospho (this product will convert any remaining surface rust from iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate. This will seal the rust and prevent it from rusting any further. Apply 2 coats and wait 24 hours. Your frame will turn a black color if Ospho is properly applied
(3). Paint with a foam brush or spray on Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer (2 coats)
(4). Paint with a foam brush or spray on Rustoleum PROFESSIONAL gloss black or flat black paint (At least 2 coats)
My frame looks fabulous and has held up for years with no signs of rust.
Por 15 is over kill if you don't live above the Mason-Dixon Line !!!!!!




