Ignoring the "arm" going to H, if the engine is actually overheating will a light come on under the arm? I'm asking because in the morning my temp gauge acts normal, but after sitting in the sun all day (temps have only been in the mid-70s) I come out after work and start it up and it almost immediately, within 30 seconds, goes to red line "H". I've checked the coolant, although it is in need of a change, and I'll probably change the thermostat while I'm at it. I've only owned the truck about a month now, so I don't know its full history, so I am going through maintenance as quick as I can, but I do know that last winter the truck blew a freeze plug.

Could the sending unit be acting up or something else?

 

ok so i got through the flush & fill, even back flushed the heater core to get everything "clear" as can be. swapped to a 180º thermostat and everything is running cooler according to the dash gauge.

i also upgraded my plugs, wires, ignition coil, and distributor cap/rotor today - but it seems to be missing just a hair. so i'm going to try to get my neighbor to look into my timing to see if it off, and possibly bump it a tick or two

 

If the truck gets hot enough the "engine" light will come on. Not the "check engine" light, the "engine" light.

 

thanks Sean - its what I was thinking, as I've never had any vehicle get "hot" that fast. When I flushed everything out, the water started out nearly black, then went brown then after about 30 minutes was finally "clear". It was disgusting.

I drove it all over the neighborhood and to the store last night the temp never got past the middle on the gauge. So I think this did the trick.

I've got a buddy that is going to help me with the timing this week. After the ignition change over the truck even sounds better now, though it has some hesitation when starting out and shifting into any gear now. Almost like I am shifting extremely too early.

 

You probably had a blockage, especially as nasty as the stuff that came out was. Check for codes for the running and shifting problem.

 

ok I still need to pull codes, but I had my buddy check the timing and when he popped the hood and grabbed my distributor it was rotating freely. The PO had it replaced right before I bought (to the tune of $800), but apparently they forgot to tighten the bolt. so he got the timing to about 11 BTDC - it was around 7 when I checked it last night. So I figured that explained the crappy driving and everything. My buddy had to lift and re-seat the distributor to get it to rotate to get to 11.

So here is my new problem that started last night before he even touched anything. Being I changed wires/plugs/cap/coil last weekend I was dumb enough NOT to check the firing order until last night. The PO had half the cylinders firing in the wrong order. SO I fixed that and took a few strolls around the neighborhood and noticed a burning smell. I checked my wires and nothing was on the exhaust manifolds, so I looked around and couldn't find anything. So this morning I drove it 30 minutes from my house and when I got to where i was going it was "burning" heavily (smell) and the exhaust tips were extremely hot and smelled. So I called my buddy to check it out and the timing. He said the mis-fires could cause unspent fuel to get dumped into the exhaust. So after he worked on it I drove it around some more and it still didn't drive very well - he said I might to check the timing chain as it may be getting worn. In the 30 minute drive home at the end of the day, I never got out of 2nd gear as it backfired/popped like crazy at the low end of RPM. After going down the road a few miles I stopped and looked under the truck and Catalytic Converter was glowing orange. I limped home, trying to time every light so I would not have to start from a dead stop. the exhaust was so hot from to back that I could feel it radiating from a few feet away.

At this point I am at a loss. Could having the distributor moved 1 tooth cause this much of a problem or could the original replacement not have been done properly? I am really leaning to taking it into a shop my neighbor uses for big repairs. I just need a little guidance to know what to expect. Do you think my Cats are toast? I have 2 pipes underneath that are about rusted through, so I am saving for replacing them, but may just try to get the entire thing in one sweep.

1995 302 142k miles. I have replaced (before this issue) with MSD Ignition Coil, Cap, rotor. Taylor Spiro-Pro 8mm wires, and basic copper core plugs. I have changed the oil and added Seafoam to the oil and fuel tank to clean. Flushed the Raditor/heater core and changed to a 180 degree thermostat.

I've read the how to pull codes, but can't find the STI to connect the jumper to.

 

If your cat was glowing, it could be clogged. Beyond that, I'm sorry, I have no idea

 

Older engines have a different firing order. Maybe someone changed the engine with an older one. Did it run like crap before you changed the order, and it is better now that you changed them or worse? V8s also have a problem with crossfiring so you have to route the wires carefully.

 

it ran a little better, but not perfect. i've not owned the truck long enough to know i the engine was swapped. from what the PO told me everything was original. is there anyway to tell from block stamping to see if the engine is an older 302? i wish i would have written down how they had the firing order before - but i think it was written on old cap which is in my garage trash can that i never empty....

I'll search for a wire routing guide online. I saw one from another post a few weeks ago.

 

the old cap is numbered: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 which is an HO engine

currently i have it set to: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 regular "N" VIN

now that has me wondering if it really has the HO in it, it had to be swapped from a Mustang or similar street car right? Because I have never seen the HO listed for a 95. And I would have the wrong ignition wires...?