MRydder

I was looking to remove my mechanical engine fan to free up some of the horsepower draw from that pulley. I know about a good fan from flex-a-lite with 4500 cfm, so I'm going to invest into that. I've heard from someone that the pulley connected to the engine fan, is also responsible for the water pump.. So I'm curious as to whether or not there are electric water pumps so that I can eliminate this entire pulley to hopefully free up all/any HP draw.

Andrew95

There probably is some out there, but there are better places to spend $300+ plus if you are looking for HP. Electric pumps only save a couple ponies high in the RPMs.

Scraptor

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec...p/viewall.html

They're out there, whether its worth it is a matter of opinion.

MRydder

Hey scraptor, does that electric water pump work on the 4.9 tho?

MRydder

sorry I forgot to mention I'm running a 300. I realize it wont be a huge upgrade, but every little penny adds up in the long run!

unit505

I think a 4500cfm fan is overkill. I believe my twin fans are only pulling around 1200 each on high and they are more than enough to keep the 300 cool on a 100+ degree day. One of my 12" fans runs less than 1 minute per cycle. Both fans only run for less than 30 seconds. I don't believe going with an electric pump will give any noticeable gain. The e-fan alone will give the most bang for the buck. The e-fan IMO is the most noticeable upgrade you can make short of adding nitrous. Especially if your running an HD fan now.

Keep in mind, the 300 has allot of under hood breathing room and air moves very well around the motor. At cruising speeds of 45mph or more, they don't even need the fan at all. The ac benefits more from the fan than the motor does. The electric fan really only plays in during heavy stop and go traffic or sitting at idle......that is if your cooling system is working properly. A 4500 cfm fan will be loud and obnoxious as well as the fact that your engine temp will probably fall under normal operating temp every cycle. When my fans kick in, you see the temp gauge drop rapidly. When the fans turn off, you can continue to watch the temp drop for another 30 seconds before they start to climb again. I don't have a mechanical temp gauge, but when i cycle the fans using a thermometer in the radiator filler neck, I see a 20 degree temp drop in that 20-30 second fan cycle. My standard with no ac at the moment may have the e-fan run twice a month while I'm at the drive through cashing my check. Other than idle, it never kicks in. One more tidbit of info, I posted some vids a while back of the under hood temperature testing that I did. Under normal highway driving, my under hood temps never made it more than 15 degrees above outside air temps. Idling can get up pretty high after 5 minutes or so. The 300 with a stock single core rad and standard transmission runs very cool and efficient.

I'm not the e-fan expert, but I did allot of testing with my setup and try to throw some real world findings out there.

Edit...................I did a little research this morning on the automatic transmission temperature. I needed to do this for my own benefit for when I upgrade to e-fans on my 5.0. What I found was that an automatic transmission temps seem to vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Their appears to be an average of 180-200*F. Some manufacturers with HD Trucks show max temps as high as 270*F while towing. Looks like the e-fan on our half tons should take care of automatic trans temps just fine with the fan set at 195-200* cut on during normal driving. Heavy towing might require an external trans cooler with a dedicated e-fan to cut on at a slightly cooler temp. There appears to be quite a bit of difference in recommended temps, but they all seem to agree that synthetic trans fluid does not degrade nearly as bad as regular transmission fluid at higher temps.

Scraptor

Anything fits anything if you can make an adaptor.
Moroso, and Mr gasket have semi universal fit electric motor kits to turn your stock water pump, one of my friends built his own for a big block chebby in his drag car, he used a heater fan motor to drive the stock chevy pump.
There are also some remote mounted pumps, and some people have used 12v boat bilge pumps.

sdmartin65

I'm not sold on the idea that there is much HP to be gained by eliminating any belt driven items. Last year I was thinking of putting electric fans on my truck. As a test to see if I gain any power, I removed the clutch fan for about a month. I didn't notice any difference at all in performance or mpg. About a month ago I re did the top end and decided to throw a new fan clutch in while I was at it. The first one I got was defective. It was always on around town and really robbed the power.

If I was in a really hot climate I think it would be worth it to put one on the front side of the radiator. Wire it to run when the AC is on. Other than that I think the gains to be had are minimal.

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

There is no gain on a street truck. Where do you think the electricity comes from to power the electric water pump? The alternator, which will cost you more horsepower to supply the extra voltage.

unit505

I can't speak for the v8's, but my I6 had considerable gains in both power and mpg with the e-fans. With that said, I did go e-fans from HD flex fan. I'll report on the 5.0 in a few weeks when I convert my '94 5.0 to e-fans. It cannot help but give some gain when eliminating a large HD belt drive fan. IMO

Edit....I have to agree with Sean on the electric water pump. The fans are a seldom run accessory. A pump is a constant voltage pull. Do away with one and add another.