Still pinging
09-30-2009, 09:07 PM
#1
Mother Trucker
Thread Starter
Still pinging
Well I'm still having my pinging problem, I put up a post a lil while ago bout it and I tried everything I could to fix it but it doesnt seem to want to quit. Base timing is at 10 advance is working...maybe a little to much? When it does rattle its always under a hard load, in 4th with the hammer down and it only sounds like a couple cyls doing it. I tried some 110 octane booster, that didnt do jack....
. I also put my MSD 6A back on with the TFI blaster coil and I got my ignition miss back too. But...it only does it when the 6A box is hooked up, the coil works fine, tried a different ignition module. I dunno what else would cause it. Any more suggestions?
. I also put my MSD 6A back on with the TFI blaster coil and I got my ignition miss back too. But...it only does it when the 6A box is hooked up, the coil works fine, tried a different ignition module. I dunno what else would cause it. Any more suggestions?
09-30-2009, 09:41 PM
#2
Hi-Rev Motorsports
Carbon?
have you tried the water injection trick or some Seafoam....?
A EGR valve that isnt working right will cause pinging especially on the cyclinders closest to the port the exhaust gasses are introduced to...
I am not sure why you would get a miss with the 6A box unless it either isnt getting a sufficient ground or voltage...???
I have one on mine...I mounted it on the drivers side under the hood hinge right next to the air box....I ran the hot wire straight to the Solenoid and the ground was mounted to the fender right at a screw hole above teh air box...I sanded the paint off right at the connection too...
although I am still using the stock coil I am thinking about switching to the MSD coil...
you may have a bad box though...I would go out on a limb and say the Knock sensor isnt retarting the timing under hard load...
I would suspect carbon on the piston tops either setting off the rattle or the EGR...
what do the plugs look like on all cylinders?
EDIT? also is this the stock engine or did you rebuild it with newer pistons...?
what thermostat temp are you running?
what cylinders do you think are pinging..front or rear...if they are rear this can be a heat and lean condition as the rear of the engine can run 40-80deg hotter than the front...
have you tried the water injection trick or some Seafoam....?
A EGR valve that isnt working right will cause pinging especially on the cyclinders closest to the port the exhaust gasses are introduced to...
I am not sure why you would get a miss with the 6A box unless it either isnt getting a sufficient ground or voltage...???
I have one on mine...I mounted it on the drivers side under the hood hinge right next to the air box....I ran the hot wire straight to the Solenoid and the ground was mounted to the fender right at a screw hole above teh air box...I sanded the paint off right at the connection too...
although I am still using the stock coil I am thinking about switching to the MSD coil...
you may have a bad box though...I would go out on a limb and say the Knock sensor isnt retarting the timing under hard load...
I would suspect carbon on the piston tops either setting off the rattle or the EGR...
what do the plugs look like on all cylinders?
EDIT? also is this the stock engine or did you rebuild it with newer pistons...?
what thermostat temp are you running?
what cylinders do you think are pinging..front or rear...if they are rear this can be a heat and lean condition as the rear of the engine can run 40-80deg hotter than the front...
Last edited by dr_bowtie; 09-30-2009 at 09:44 PM.
10-01-2009, 08:10 AM
#3
Mother Trucker
Thread Starter
Well I know its not carboned up, the motors only got about 15k on it. I built it just a couple years ago. As far as I can remember...its got valve reliefs in the pistons, and they did mill the heads down just a bit to true them up, so I dont think its from to high of compression.
There is no EGR left on it, I've taken all the air injection and EGR crap off and blocked all the holes.
I have a feeling I got a bad 6a box, I've got my hot wire going straight to the battery as well as my ground. And this is a 5.8, there is no knock sensor on it. My 5.0 had one but when I put the 5.8 in it I just left that plug off.
I am still having a problem with different color spark plugs, the back 4 are lighter than the front 4...not exactly sure how that could be other than an intake leak...I did spray some brake clean along the intake edges...both upper and lower, and didnt hear and change in the engine speed.
And its definitely not a stock engine, I've got quite a bit of work into it...the heads got drilled out for 2.02, 1.60 valves and got ported and polished, and milled.
I am running a 160 t stat.
The only thing I can think is its the back 4 cyls doing it...just for the fact they have a lighter color than the front 4...which isnt that much lighter, the front 4 are running rich. Which I'm also confused about. My fuel pressure is 39 psi at idle and I've got the mass air conversion done to it. The maf did get calibrated for my engine as well. I am getting a check engine...BUT...that was a pre existing condition, due to the fact that I took my egr off. But I think next time I'm in town I will get it checked to see what all codes I'm getting.
There is no EGR left on it, I've taken all the air injection and EGR crap off and blocked all the holes.
I have a feeling I got a bad 6a box, I've got my hot wire going straight to the battery as well as my ground. And this is a 5.8, there is no knock sensor on it. My 5.0 had one but when I put the 5.8 in it I just left that plug off.
I am still having a problem with different color spark plugs, the back 4 are lighter than the front 4...not exactly sure how that could be other than an intake leak...I did spray some brake clean along the intake edges...both upper and lower, and didnt hear and change in the engine speed.
And its definitely not a stock engine, I've got quite a bit of work into it...the heads got drilled out for 2.02, 1.60 valves and got ported and polished, and milled.
I am running a 160 t stat.
The only thing I can think is its the back 4 cyls doing it...just for the fact they have a lighter color than the front 4...which isnt that much lighter, the front 4 are running rich. Which I'm also confused about. My fuel pressure is 39 psi at idle and I've got the mass air conversion done to it. The maf did get calibrated for my engine as well. I am getting a check engine...BUT...that was a pre existing condition, due to the fact that I took my egr off. But I think next time I'm in town I will get it checked to see what all codes I'm getting.
10-01-2009, 12:50 PM
#4
Hi-Rev Motorsports
I think you really answered your own question...you need to find out why the plugs are different colors..weird it is just the rear 4..? but I would suspect the same thing...got anything pulling vacuum from the rear...? brake booster or anything...if that is faulty is may act just like a vac leak...
the EGR will lower combustion temps and that helps with pinging thats why I asked if you still had one..
If plugs were the same I would ask if you sanded the sharp edges off the tops of the pistons...those edges with set off detonation...thats whats called "fluffing" the pistons...
is there any way you can check teh coolant temp at the rear of the engine...? I would wonder is something isnt right and the temp is higher...if the temp is higher in the rear of the engine than it is in the front this will cause the rear plugs to show leaner...suspecting cooling issues....
I would consider putting the Knock sensor back and let the ECM pull timing out when needed I know it's a bitch but its better then detonating a hole...
EDIT what exact cam did you use and where did you set it...?
the EGR will lower combustion temps and that helps with pinging thats why I asked if you still had one..
If plugs were the same I would ask if you sanded the sharp edges off the tops of the pistons...those edges with set off detonation...thats whats called "fluffing" the pistons...
is there any way you can check teh coolant temp at the rear of the engine...? I would wonder is something isnt right and the temp is higher...if the temp is higher in the rear of the engine than it is in the front this will cause the rear plugs to show leaner...suspecting cooling issues....
I would consider putting the Knock sensor back and let the ECM pull timing out when needed I know it's a bitch but its better then detonating a hole...
EDIT what exact cam did you use and where did you set it...?
10-01-2009, 02:30 PM
#5
Mother Trucker
Thread Starter
Well the prob with the knock sensor is there isnt anywhere to put it on the 5.8. On the 5.0 it was right on the back of the block but when I got the 351 in, there wasnt anywhere to put it back in.
As far as vacuum pulling off the intake its just the usual, the boosters running off the tree on the front half and the fuel press regulator...which is adjustable...is the only thing off the single port on the back half. But just for ****es and giggles I might pull that single one off and cap it and try running the fuel reg off the main tree. I'll have to look around and see if theres any way to put in another temp sensor somewhere on the back and check it, I dont remember seeing anywhere i can but its worth a shot. All the cooling parts got replaced when I did the motor except the radiator, it never get hot, even with the 190 t stat in it and the little pissy 2 core rad thats in it.
The cam is a Comp XE250 .250/.260 duration and .462/.474 lift. and I installed it straight up.
The plugs have always had me baffled....even before I did the mass air convert, they had a red color to them, and it was the same, the back 4 were lighter than the front. This is really frustrating...I gotta get this figured out before snowmobiling season, cant be drivin up in the mountains with her pingin like this.
As far as vacuum pulling off the intake its just the usual, the boosters running off the tree on the front half and the fuel press regulator...which is adjustable...is the only thing off the single port on the back half. But just for ****es and giggles I might pull that single one off and cap it and try running the fuel reg off the main tree. I'll have to look around and see if theres any way to put in another temp sensor somewhere on the back and check it, I dont remember seeing anywhere i can but its worth a shot. All the cooling parts got replaced when I did the motor except the radiator, it never get hot, even with the 190 t stat in it and the little pissy 2 core rad thats in it.
The cam is a Comp XE250 .250/.260 duration and .462/.474 lift. and I installed it straight up.
The plugs have always had me baffled....even before I did the mass air convert, they had a red color to them, and it was the same, the back 4 were lighter than the front.
This is really frustrating...I gotta get this figured out before snowmobiling season, cant be drivin up in the mountains with her pingin like this.
10-01-2009, 02:46 PM
#6
Hi-Rev Motorsports
have you hooked a vacuum gauge to the tree and see how it reads...it could have an internal vacuum leak although i doubt it does on both side but it is possible...
if it is still a problem and you cant find anything wrong I would probably do the hill jack trick and put 1# higher injectors in the rear ones...
fuel is squirted directly into the ports so even with a small leak the fuel would still be there...just idle would be higher...it isnt like a carb where the air is after the fuel...it's before it
if it is still a problem and you cant find anything wrong I would probably do the hill jack trick and put 1# higher injectors in the rear ones...
fuel is squirted directly into the ports so even with a small leak the fuel would still be there...just idle would be higher...it isnt like a carb where the air is after the fuel...it's before it
10-01-2009, 04:20 PM
#7
Mother Trucker
Thread Starter
I have put a vac guage on the main vac tree and all looked good a steady 15 inches...but I havent put one on the single port my fuel reg runs off of. I'll have to try that when I get some time.
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10-01-2009, 04:35 PM
#8
Hi-Rev Motorsports
I would think 15 inches is a bit low...I would think 20 is more in line with what should be..I'll have to check my 4.9L and see what it does...most of the stockers should be 19-20in and that cam wouldnt make it drop that much...thats basically a stock cam...
