Stalling in the rain...
My truck stalled out in the rain today, 2nd time it has done it. It did start right back up though. The first time it wouldn't restart.
Since the 1st and 2nd time I have:
replaced plug wires
replaced distributor cap and rotor
replaced coil
moved ECM to its proper location (It was ziptied up in the compartment.)
The distributor cap seems a bit loose as I can rock it back and forth slightly with the spring clips on. I'm thinking about running a small bead of silicone around the bottom of the cap to help snug it up.
Anything else to check?
Since the 1st and 2nd time I have:
replaced plug wires
replaced distributor cap and rotor
replaced coil
moved ECM to its proper location (It was ziptied up in the compartment.)
The distributor cap seems a bit loose as I can rock it back and forth slightly with the spring clips on. I'm thinking about running a small bead of silicone around the bottom of the cap to help snug it up.
Anything else to check?
I think the rain might be a coincidence. I stalled again in the afternoon and it wasn't raining. I had driven it on the freeway for awhile and got off. Stopped at a light and when I started to go it stalled. I was able to start it back up again but something wierd was happening...
When I was in drive with the vehicle stopped the idle would drop quite a bit almost stalling it (from 800 down to about 500) When it did this the meter for the battery would drop down as well. I've had the battery and the alternator checked and they are fine. Is 800 too low of an idle speed? I made it home and put in a new water pump (old one was making noise) a new coolant temp sender, thermostat, and plugs. I noticed that one of the plug wires was off. The plugs were all gapped at .050-.060 except for a couple that were about .40. 2 of them were black, but it wasn't oil. #3, and #7. The wire that was off was #3 so maybe that's part of the reason it was fouled a bit.
Scott
I agree on both points... Is there a way to tighten up the spring clips?
I think the rain might be a coincidence. I stalled again in the afternoon and it wasn't raining. I had driven it on the freeway for awhile and got off. Stopped at a light and when I started to go it stalled. I was able to start it back up again but something wierd was happening...
When I was in drive with the vehicle stopped the idle would drop quite a bit almost stalling it (from 800 down to about 500) When it did this the meter for the battery would drop down as well. I've had the battery and the alternator checked and they are fine. Is 800 too low of an idle speed? I made it home and put in a new water pump (old one was making noise) a new coolant temp sender, thermostat, and plugs. I noticed that one of the plug wires was off. The plugs were all gapped at .050-.060 except for a couple that were about .40. 2 of them were black, but it wasn't oil. #3, and #7. The wire that was off was #3 so maybe that's part of the reason it was fouled a bit.
Scott
I think the rain might be a coincidence. I stalled again in the afternoon and it wasn't raining. I had driven it on the freeway for awhile and got off. Stopped at a light and when I started to go it stalled. I was able to start it back up again but something wierd was happening...
When I was in drive with the vehicle stopped the idle would drop quite a bit almost stalling it (from 800 down to about 500) When it did this the meter for the battery would drop down as well. I've had the battery and the alternator checked and they are fine. Is 800 too low of an idle speed? I made it home and put in a new water pump (old one was making noise) a new coolant temp sender, thermostat, and plugs. I noticed that one of the plug wires was off. The plugs were all gapped at .050-.060 except for a couple that were about .40. 2 of them were black, but it wasn't oil. #3, and #7. The wire that was off was #3 so maybe that's part of the reason it was fouled a bit.
Scott
Moving on to your Idle. Standard idle for your engine is 650-675 RPM at normal operating temp. So you have a problem there. Could be a bad ECT sender, too low a thermostat, A vacuum leak, IAC problem, TPS sensor, excessive operating temp.
Error Code Scans!!!!
& remove, clean, reinstall & test your IAC valve as instructed on this link. Being a valve, not a senor, it will not trigger a code if it's pooched. http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=39
Last edited by ymeski56; Sep 21, 2010 at 11:12 AM.
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I'm not sure what year the 302's gap went larger than .044, but you should find out what your yrs. gap should be. .040 & .060 are both off the charts regardless w/ a stock ignition. I "think" a 93' 302 should be .044, otherwise it's .054.
Moving on to your Idle. Standard idle for your engine is 650-675 RPM at normal operating temp. So you have a problem there. Could be a bad ECT sender, too low a thermostat, A vacuum leak, IAC problem, TPS sensor, excessive operating temp.
Error Code Scans!!!!
& remove, clean, reinstall & test your IAC valve as instructed on this link. Being a valve, not a senor, it will not trigger a code if it's pooched. http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=39
Moving on to your Idle. Standard idle for your engine is 650-675 RPM at normal operating temp. So you have a problem there. Could be a bad ECT sender, too low a thermostat, A vacuum leak, IAC problem, TPS sensor, excessive operating temp.
Error Code Scans!!!!
& remove, clean, reinstall & test your IAC valve as instructed on this link. Being a valve, not a senor, it will not trigger a code if it's pooched. http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=39
I have not gotten any error codes and I have done both of the tests as well. I removed the solenoid portion of the IAC and cleaned that out. I'll get the other half off and clean that as well. I've checked the TPS and it seems to be within range. I replaced the ECT sender as well. I still need to pull the EGR off and check that as well as cleaning it. If it were the 02 sensors would I get a code?
On a side note I took it to get emissions tested and it failed miserably. Then I found out I didn't need to get it tested because of where I live.
I have not gotten any error codes and I have done both of the tests as well. I removed the solenoid portion of the IAC and cleaned that out. I'll get the other half off and clean that as well. I've checked the TPS and it seems to be within range. I replaced the ECT sender as well. I still need to pull the EGR off and check that as well as cleaning it. If it were the 02 sensors would I get a code?
On a side note I took it to get emissions tested and it failed miserably. Then I found out I didn't need to get it tested because of where I live.
On a side note I took it to get emissions tested and it failed miserably. Then I found out I didn't need to get it tested because of where I live.
Definitely clean your EGR. Not causing the cut out prob, but should be done
If you have more than 60K on the 02 sensor(s), they should be replaced for optimum performance & MPG.
What parts did you fail? Be specific.
I think your biggest problem is going to end up the PIP sensor (stator) &/or TFI module (ICM) are failing. The cutting out will become more frequent, & less likely to restart each time. http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=25
Assuming your not loosing fuel pressure when this cutting out is occurring.
But there is something else less dramatic going on too.
Last edited by ymeski56; Sep 21, 2010 at 12:14 PM.
I failed everything but the gas caps. The HC/PPM was way too high and the C02 was a little too high. I'd imagine the Cat is shot, would that cause driveability issues?
I think your biggest problem is going to end up the PIP sensor (stator) &/or TFI module (ICM) are failing. The cutting out will become more frequent, & less likely to restart each time. http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=25
Assuming your not loosing fuel pressure when this cutting out is occurring.
Assuming your not loosing fuel pressure when this cutting out is occurring.
WHAT? The suspense is killing me!


