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Sloppy Steering Question

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Old 05-15-2018, 11:33 AM
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More is better: miles, mods, maintenance, damage, repairs, EACH factory option (including whether the column is tilt or not), axle gears & diff types, colors... Everything. A photo of the truck as your avatar is also good.

This photo album explains the '92-up steering column:


(phone app link)


The '92-up non-tilt column is a '92-up tilt column with the tilt mechanism locked, and no release handle.
Old 05-15-2018, 04:00 PM
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Could possibly be the rag joint at the bottom of the column near the gear box. Those go out and create a ton of slack. Easier to buy a replacement off the internet. You can do what I did and get one with a u-joint at each end to not have to deal with rag joints lol
Old 05-15-2018, 10:12 PM
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What's the best way to teat the rag joint?
Old 05-15-2018, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by BLDTruth
Sig looks good to me.

Vertical play in the steering column can't be good - my guess is either the tilt mechanism is shot or the bearings in the column are going/gone. Repairing a steering column can be a PITA job so if you can find a replacement column, that would be the way to go IMHO. 4 bolts hold it to the dash, a single bolt holds it to the steering shaft, and a few electrical connectors.
Is there a good way to test whether the bearings are the problem?
Old 05-26-2018, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve83
You need to CONTINUE checking for slop. As you turn the input (intermediate shaft) to the steering box, observe its OUTPUT (pitman arm). If the input moves, but the output doesn't, the box is worn out (and adjustment WON'T fix it). If the output moves with the input, then the slop is downstream from the box - check the tie rod ends, ball joints, wheel bearings...
So, there is definitely slack between the steering shaft and the steering gear box. With the truck off and the wheels stationary, I can easily turn the shaft 1/5-1/4 turn by hand without any output downstream of the box. I had the steering gear box replaced right after I bought the truck five years ago (~15k miles), but I would bet that the replacement was just a cheap reman unit. Should I start by replacing the gearbox and go from there? I wouldn't be surprised if there are several contributors to this problem.

Can someone recommend a good thread and/or video on how to do that? Do I need any special tools other than a Pitman arm puller?

Thanks!
Old 05-27-2018, 12:21 PM
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If the box is sloppy, then it needs to be replaced in any case. So it makes sense to start there, but don't expect it to end there.

The box just bolts to the frame, so it's not complicated to swap - just HEAVY. The only trick is using the right PA puller - I prefer Darth Vader:


(phone app link)


To make the box last, use only MotorCraft ATF (Mercon for later trucks; yours probably takes Type F, but check your owner's manual & the PSF cap). Also: add an inline filter - I recommend MagneFine:


(phone app link)


Lastly: consider the Sagniaw swap. It's cheap, easy, effective, durable...


(phone app link)


'87-up rag joints are molded & reinforced, and they don't often go bad. But you'll be able to inspect it when you pull the box. It only takes 1 more easy bolt under the dash above the brake pedal to pull the whole intermediate shaft out. Since your truck doesn't have an airbag/clock spring, you don't have to worry about the steering wheel spinning or the box being centered.

The job won't be nearly as messy if you put some money into a car wash to blast the box, frame, & pump a few days before you dive in.
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Old 05-27-2018, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve83

(phone app link)


'87-up rag joints are molded & reinforced, and they don't often go bad. But you'll be able to inspect it when you pull the box. It only takes 1 more easy bolt under the dash above the brake pedal to pull the whole intermediate shaft out. Since your truck doesn't have an airbag/clock spring, you don't have to worry about the steering wheel spinning or the box being centered.

The job won't be nearly as messy if you put some money into a car wash to blast the box, frame, & pump a few days before you dive in.
Thanks, Steve! How would I figure out whether I needed to replace the intermediate shaft with a new power steering box? Also, when looking at the rag joint, what should I be looking for to determine if it's in good shape?

About the Saginaw conversion, do you have a diagram for the PS mounting bracket from a 92-96 E-150 with and without A/C? I have been wanting to do the Saginaw swap for a while and picked up the mounting bracket and return hose (I think) at a local JY. It was supposed to be for an application with A/C since I have it in my truck, but the bracket doesn't look like it will leave room for the A/C compressor. Were the +/- A/C power steering mounting brackets different in those old E-150s?

Thanks!

Last edited by Lazarus-F150; 05-27-2018 at 09:14 PM.
Old 05-28-2018, 10:15 AM
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Can't speak for the 300, but on my 302 the bracket looked pretty much the same as the old one, with different holes for the pump bolts. A/C threaded right in. 94 truck, 92 bracket/pump.

https://www.f150forum.com/f10/sagina...3/#post4832535
Old 05-28-2018, 02:11 PM
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The box is one thing; the intermediate shaft is another, that contains the rag joint. If the joint is bad, you'll see it.

All I know about E-series brackets is shown in that Saginaw photo album.
Old 05-28-2018, 07:52 PM
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[QUOTE=Steve83;5790243]The box is one thing; the intermediate shaft is another, that contains the rag joint. If the joint is bad, you'll see it.

I'm no expert, but the rag joint doesn't look like it's damaged or otherwise falling apart. Would you recommend just planning to replace both the box and the intermediate shaft while I have it all apart?

Any recommendations on a manufacturer for the intermediate shaft? Any thoughts of Borgeson? (https://shop.broncograveyard.com/199...uctinfo/32857/) Perhaps paired with a Redhead power steering box?


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