Sloppy steering
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Sloppy steering
I have a 1988 Ford F150 XLT Lariat with over 200K miles. I got the truck with about 180K and at that time the steering seemed loose. I figured it was the steering box or something else. I finally took it to a mechanic locally, and they found a crack in the front cross member. I was told that it can not be welded and needs to be replaced. The consensus of those that I have spoke to is to dump the truck because it is beyond reapair. Can this truck be saved??? Any advice or suggestions are appreciated. Other than this issue, the truck runs great.....
#2
Member
Did you verify the crack with your eyes?
The engine itself gives the frame a significant amount of lateral and torsional stability (despite it's torque twisting), along with the bumpers, other crossmembers, body, and bracing. While a crossmember may be cracked, there are other causes for your loose steering such as bushings, ball joints, tie rods, and such. Seek other advice and confirm the death sentence you were given before going much further. These trucks are tough as Fords and they are repairable for low cash outlay.
Just my thoughts
The engine itself gives the frame a significant amount of lateral and torsional stability (despite it's torque twisting), along with the bumpers, other crossmembers, body, and bracing. While a crossmember may be cracked, there are other causes for your loose steering such as bushings, ball joints, tie rods, and such. Seek other advice and confirm the death sentence you were given before going much further. These trucks are tough as Fords and they are repairable for low cash outlay.
Just my thoughts
Last edited by stxlt; 06-04-2018 at 01:57 PM. Reason: misplaced punctuation
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larry928 (06-04-2018)
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Did you verify the crack with your eyes?
The engine itself gives the frame a significant amount of lateral and torsional stability (despite it's torque twisting), along with the bumpers, other crossmembers, body, and bracing. While a crossmember may be cracked, there are other causes for your loose steering such as bushings, ball joints, tie rods, and such. Seek other advice and confirm the death sentence you were given before going much further. These trucks are tough as Fords and they are repairable for low cash outlay.
Just my thoughts
The engine itself gives the frame a significant amount of lateral and torsional stability (despite it's torque twisting), along with the bumpers, other crossmembers, body, and bracing. While a crossmember may be cracked, there are other causes for your loose steering such as bushings, ball joints, tie rods, and such. Seek other advice and confirm the death sentence you were given before going much further. These trucks are tough as Fords and they are repairable for low cash outlay.
Just my thoughts
Photo of crack
#4
Member
Uhhhhh, nope. That's something there! Is it a crack AND a huge chip/chunk missing there?
On a side note, I have a 1992 frame for a 2wd if you want it. Stripped, straight, and no road salt exposure; just Coastal Carolina air and dirt roads. Odometer read 70,361 but I'd stick a 1 in front for sure (170, 361miles)!
On a side note, I have a 1992 frame for a 2wd if you want it. Stripped, straight, and no road salt exposure; just Coastal Carolina air and dirt roads. Odometer read 70,361 but I'd stick a 1 in front for sure (170, 361miles)!
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larry928 (06-04-2018)
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Uhhhhh, nope. That's something there! Is it a crack AND a huge chip/chunk missing there?
On a side note, I have a 1992 frame for a 2wd if you want it. Stripped, straight, and no road salt exposure; just Coastal Carolina air and dirt roads. Odometer read 70,361 but I'd stick a 1 in front for sure (170, 361miles)!
On a side note, I have a 1992 frame for a 2wd if you want it. Stripped, straight, and no road salt exposure; just Coastal Carolina air and dirt roads. Odometer read 70,361 but I'd stick a 1 in front for sure (170, 361miles)!
Larry
#6
Senior Member
I'm not a metallurgist. but that looks like a good welder could repair that. There is still a lot of grime, and it may be worse than it appears, but if it is no worse than it looks, I'd; drill a hole at the end of the crack to terminate it, weld it from both sides & perhaps put a gusset on it to reinforce and prevent future cracks. I would expect to pay $50 - $200 per hour for that level of work, but it shouldn't take more than an hour or 2. You can reduce that time by cleaning it up yourself, Back to the original problem, worn parts are more likely the cause of the slop. I usually get it on a lift and go around with a pry-bar checking everything for play. That can be done on your back in a driveway it is just a damsite less comfortable. you may want to look at this sister thread: https://www.f150forum.com/f10/sloppy...estion-416090/
The following users liked this post:
larry928 (06-05-2018)