Over heating
I am damn terrified that my truck is going to over heat again. Coolant is full and strong. The next few months ate gonna kill me of the ol beast doesn't stay cool. Any tip/hints to make sure it won't overheat? I have a new thermostat (not sure how or if I can check that) new hoses, water pump, and no leaks. Any advise?
Originally Posted by Mr.Bones
i dont know i think its magic lol. it helps keep the motor cool under stress. i use it in my daily driver and my 1 ton i use to haul stuff with.
If your cooling system is properly maintained, it won't overheat. You can add blue ice or other 'miracle' cures to band-aid a problem, but it won't exist in the first place if everything's working as it should.
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Suggest to ensure the radiator is flowing free internally, and that the fins are clean outside.
Check the thermostatic clutch on the fan. If you can spin it (with the engine off, of course) more than 1/2 turn, or rock it fore and aft any significant amount - it's suspect.
The fan shroud is important to maximize the effect of the fan.
Some convert to an electric fan. Lots of plusses, the minuses include the expense and the pain of wiring up.
Make sure the water pump is turning in the proper direction. One of the lesser possibilities - but, if you don't know what the problem is, start eliminating what it ain't.
Don't go cheap on the thermostat. Quick-n-easy check is to drop it in boiling water. OEM temp is 195, boiling water is 212 - if it ain't reacting in boiling water, there's a problem. Some may recommend a lower temp thermostat or removing it completely - but that will affect the engine controls to some degree.
Make sure the radiator cap is in good shape. This helps raise the boiling point of 50/50 mix from 227 degF at zero pressure up to about 255 degF at 13psi to reduce the chances of those ugly puking episodes.
Finally, make sure your antifreeze mix is no more than 50/50. Straight water is an excellent conductor of heat, the antifreeze helps raise the boiling point as well as add some corrosion inhibitors at a cost.
Check the thermostatic clutch on the fan. If you can spin it (with the engine off, of course) more than 1/2 turn, or rock it fore and aft any significant amount - it's suspect.
The fan shroud is important to maximize the effect of the fan.
Some convert to an electric fan. Lots of plusses, the minuses include the expense and the pain of wiring up.
Make sure the water pump is turning in the proper direction. One of the lesser possibilities - but, if you don't know what the problem is, start eliminating what it ain't.
Don't go cheap on the thermostat. Quick-n-easy check is to drop it in boiling water. OEM temp is 195, boiling water is 212 - if it ain't reacting in boiling water, there's a problem. Some may recommend a lower temp thermostat or removing it completely - but that will affect the engine controls to some degree.
Make sure the radiator cap is in good shape. This helps raise the boiling point of 50/50 mix from 227 degF at zero pressure up to about 255 degF at 13psi to reduce the chances of those ugly puking episodes.
Finally, make sure your antifreeze mix is no more than 50/50. Straight water is an excellent conductor of heat, the antifreeze helps raise the boiling point as well as add some corrosion inhibitors at a cost.
Good info but I'm confused by your fan clutch check. A normal working clutch can be turned with the engine off. The only one I've seen that couldn't was dead (fully locked up at any temperature).






