need help removing headlights
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 4
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From: boston
need help removing headlights
1995 ford 150 6 cylinder
need help removing headlights
hey guys searched the forum doesn't give much detail about removing the head lights and installing the new ones. i knew where the 2 screws are at the top but cant find the ones at the bottom. pictures or details would be sweet
need help removing headlights
hey guys searched the forum doesn't give much detail about removing the head lights and installing the new ones. i knew where the 2 screws are at the top but cant find the ones at the bottom. pictures or details would be sweet
Love Ford or F*** Off
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 237
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From: Kansas City
1995 ford 150 6 cylinder
need help removing headlights
hey guys searched the forum doesn't give much detail about removing the head lights and installing the new ones. i knew where the 2 screws are at the top but cant find the ones at the bottom. pictures or details would be sweet
need help removing headlights
hey guys searched the forum doesn't give much detail about removing the head lights and installing the new ones. i knew where the 2 screws are at the top but cant find the ones at the bottom. pictures or details would be sweet
DRIVER'S SIDE: DEPENDING ON HOW BIG YOUR HANDS ARE YOU MIGHT NEED TO UN-BOLT THE RADIATOR/WASHER FLUID BOX LIKE I DID. YOU DONT NEED TO COMPLETLY REMOVE IT, JUST TAKE THE NUT OFF (7/16) AND TURN IT UP, IT WILL GIVE U A LOT MORE ROOM. TO REMOVE THE BOTTOM 2 BOLTS YOU WILL ALSO NEED A 7/16 DEEP SOCKET. ONE BOLT IS TO THE LEFT OF THE HEADLIGHT AND OTHER IS ON THE RIGHT OF THE HEADLIGHT. EACH BOLT IS INSIDE A CUT OUT OF THE FRAME. NOW THIS PART IS TRICKY. THE BOLT THAT IS ON THE SIDE NEAR THE GRILL IS A BOLT THAT JUSTS SCREWS INTO THE CHROME HEADLIGHT BEZEL. IT DOES NOT COME OUT. ONCE YOU BEGIN CRANKING ON IT YOU WILL SEE THE BEZEL BEGIN TO COME OUT AWAY FROM THE TRUCK. AND YES YOU WILL CRANK AND CRANK AND CRANK UNTIL YOU THAT SIDE IS LOOSE WHEN YOU PULL THE BEZEL TOWARD YOU ON THAT SIDE. THE OTHER SIDE IS A THREADED BOLT THAT IS BUILT INTO THE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY AND IT HAS A 7/16 NUT ON IT. BE SUPER SUPER CAREFUL NOT TO DROP THAT NUT WHEN YOU GET TO THE END OF THE THREAD, I USED A MAGENTIC REACH TO GET IT WHEN IT WAS AT THE END OF THE BOLT. AFTER YOU'VE DONE THIS AND REMOVED THE 2 TOP SCREWS THE BEZEL WILL COME RIGHT OFF. REMOVE THE LIGHT SOCKETS FROM THE BEZEL AND PUT IT ASIDE. NOW YOU WILL SEE 3 U-SHAPED RETAINER CLIPS THAT HOLD THE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY IN PLACE, DO NOT BE CONFUSED WHEN YOU SEE THE SCREWS IN THE ASSEMBLY, THEY ARE NOT PART OF REMOVING THE HEADLIGHTS AT ALL. I STRONGLY RECOMMEND BUYING THESE CLIPS BEFORE YOU EVEN START. THEY ARE REALLY HARD TO GET OUT AND ARE SOMETIMES RUSTY AND ARE VERY PRONE TO BEING BRITTLE AND BREAK. IF YOU BREAK THEM AND DO NOT HAVE REPLACEMENTS THE NEW ASSEMBLY WILL FALL OUT, THE BEZEL DOES NOT HOLD IT IN PLACE. HERE IS A DIAGRAM OF THE CLIPS http://www.lmctruck.com/ICATALOG/FD/full.aspx?Page=146 NUMBER 5 IS THE PART. IF YOU HAVE PURCHASED SIDEMARKERS AND TURN SIGNALS YOU WILL REPLACE THEM ON THE BEZEL BEFORE RE-INSTALLING IT. REVERSE INSTRUCTIONS TO PUT BACK TOGETHER.
PASSENGER SIDE: YOU MIGHT HAVE TO REMOVE THE BATTERY. AGAIN DEPENDING ON YOUR HAND SIZE YOU MAY NEED TO ALSO REMOVE THE BATTERY TRAY. I DID REMOVE THE TRAY, IT TOOK ABOUT 5 MIN AND IT GAVE ME SO MUCH MORE ROOM TO WORK, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU HAVE TO BE SO CARERFUL WITH THAT LITTLE 7/16 NUT. REMOVAL IS THE SAME ON THIS SIDE.
REMEMBER, SINCE YOU WILL BE PROBABLY FACING THE GRILL WHEN YOU REMOVE THE BOLTS AND NUTS THE CRANKING IS OPPOSITE. CRANKING RIGHT WILL LOOSEN AND CRANKING LEFT WILL TIGHTEN...
THIS IS THE WAY I HAVE EXPERIENCED CHANGING THEM OUT SO I CANNOT SAY IF THE PRODECURE WILL BE COMPLETELY THE SAME FOR YOU BUT IT SHOULD PROVIDE A GOOD DIRECTION BASE....
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE ASK ME, HOPE THIS IS WAS DETAILED ENOUGH FOR YOU
Last edited by dustin9779; Dec 21, 2008 at 01:33 AM.
No Pain, No Pain!
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,825
Likes: 12
From: Baltimore, Maryland
Here is a link to my previously posted description on how to remove your headlight assembly: https://www.f150forum.com/showthread.php?t=6042
I did not have to remove the battery, I removed the bar that holds the battery tight and was able to move it enough to get my hands in where I needed them. As for the overflow tank/washer reservoir, I did not need to remove that either.
Good luck!
I did not have to remove the battery, I removed the bar that holds the battery tight and was able to move it enough to get my hands in where I needed them. As for the overflow tank/washer reservoir, I did not need to remove that either.
Good luck!
Love Ford or F*** Off
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 237
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From: Kansas City
there might be a tool, i dont know... they are just little clips that are wedged in but on each side of the clip there are little prongs that fit into a notch on the stub of the headlight housing... i just let some penetrating oil sit for a while (especially if they are rusty) then used regular pliers on the top two then real long needle nosed pliers on the bottom deep one... be careful though because if the tab of the clip breaks they super hard to get out because there is hardly any thing to grab on to! I really reccomend buying those clips before u start in case some of them do break and they are pretty cheap too...
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Love Ford or F*** Off
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From: Kansas City
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: pittsburgh pa
headlights
I need some help removing my headlights on my 09 to upgrade to xenon.. if anyone knows how to do this please email me... josephchop@gmail.com
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Joined: May 2011
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From: Davie, FL
IF ARE REFERRING TO CHANGING THE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY YOU'RE IN FOR A FUN DAY! LOL
DRIVER'S SIDE: DEPENDING ON HOW BIG YOUR HANDS ARE YOU MIGHT NEED TO UN-BOLT THE RADIATOR/WASHER FLUID BOX LIKE I DID. YOU DONT NEED TO COMPLETLY REMOVE IT, JUST TAKE THE NUT OFF (7/16) AND TURN IT UP, IT WILL GIVE U A LOT MORE ROOM. TO REMOVE THE BOTTOM 2 BOLTS YOU WILL ALSO NEED A 7/16 DEEP SOCKET. ONE BOLT IS TO THE LEFT OF THE HEADLIGHT AND OTHER IS ON THE RIGHT OF THE HEADLIGHT. EACH BOLT IS INSIDE A CUT OUT OF THE FRAME. NOW THIS PART IS TRICKY. THE BOLT THAT IS ON THE SIDE NEAR THE GRILL IS A BOLT THAT JUSTS SCREWS INTO THE CHROME HEADLIGHT BEZEL. IT DOES NOT COME OUT. ONCE YOU BEGIN CRANKING ON IT YOU WILL SEE THE BEZEL BEGIN TO COME OUT AWAY FROM THE TRUCK. AND YES YOU WILL CRANK AND CRANK AND CRANK UNTIL YOU THAT SIDE IS LOOSE WHEN YOU PULL THE BEZEL TOWARD YOU ON THAT SIDE. THE OTHER SIDE IS A THREADED BOLT THAT IS BUILT INTO THE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY AND IT HAS A 7/16 NUT ON IT. BE SUPER SUPER CAREFUL NOT TO DROP THAT NUT WHEN YOU GET TO THE END OF THE THREAD, I USED A MAGENTIC REACH TO GET IT WHEN IT WAS AT THE END OF THE BOLT. AFTER YOU'VE DONE THIS AND REMOVED THE 2 TOP SCREWS THE BEZEL WILL COME RIGHT OFF. REMOVE THE LIGHT SOCKETS FROM THE BEZEL AND PUT IT ASIDE. NOW YOU WILL SEE 3 U-SHAPED RETAINER CLIPS THAT HOLD THE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY IN PLACE, DO NOT BE CONFUSED WHEN YOU SEE THE SCREWS IN THE ASSEMBLY, THEY ARE NOT PART OF REMOVING THE HEADLIGHTS AT ALL. I STRONGLY RECOMMEND BUYING THESE CLIPS BEFORE YOU EVEN START. THEY ARE REALLY HARD TO GET OUT AND ARE SOMETIMES RUSTY AND ARE VERY PRONE TO BEING BRITTLE AND BREAK. IF YOU BREAK THEM AND DO NOT HAVE REPLACEMENTS THE NEW ASSEMBLY WILL FALL OUT, THE BEZEL DOES NOT HOLD IT IN PLACE. HERE IS A DIAGRAM OF THE CLIPS http://www.lmctruck.com/ICATALOG/FD/full.aspx?Page=146 NUMBER 5 IS THE PART. IF YOU HAVE PURCHASED SIDEMARKERS AND TURN SIGNALS YOU WILL REPLACE THEM ON THE BEZEL BEFORE RE-INSTALLING IT. REVERSE INSTRUCTIONS TO PUT BACK TOGETHER.
PASSENGER SIDE: YOU MIGHT HAVE TO REMOVE THE BATTERY. AGAIN DEPENDING ON YOUR HAND SIZE YOU MAY NEED TO ALSO REMOVE THE BATTERY TRAY. I DID REMOVE THE TRAY, IT TOOK ABOUT 5 MIN AND IT GAVE ME SO MUCH MORE ROOM TO WORK, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU HAVE TO BE SO CARERFUL WITH THAT LITTLE 7/16 NUT. REMOVAL IS THE SAME ON THIS SIDE.
REMEMBER, SINCE YOU WILL BE PROBABLY FACING THE GRILL WHEN YOU REMOVE THE BOLTS AND NUTS THE CRANKING IS OPPOSITE. CRANKING RIGHT WILL LOOSEN AND CRANKING LEFT WILL TIGHTEN...
THIS IS THE WAY I HAVE EXPERIENCED CHANGING THEM OUT SO I CANNOT SAY IF THE PRODECURE WILL BE COMPLETELY THE SAME FOR YOU BUT IT SHOULD PROVIDE A GOOD DIRECTION BASE....
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE ASK ME, HOPE THIS IS WAS DETAILED ENOUGH FOR YOU
DRIVER'S SIDE: DEPENDING ON HOW BIG YOUR HANDS ARE YOU MIGHT NEED TO UN-BOLT THE RADIATOR/WASHER FLUID BOX LIKE I DID. YOU DONT NEED TO COMPLETLY REMOVE IT, JUST TAKE THE NUT OFF (7/16) AND TURN IT UP, IT WILL GIVE U A LOT MORE ROOM. TO REMOVE THE BOTTOM 2 BOLTS YOU WILL ALSO NEED A 7/16 DEEP SOCKET. ONE BOLT IS TO THE LEFT OF THE HEADLIGHT AND OTHER IS ON THE RIGHT OF THE HEADLIGHT. EACH BOLT IS INSIDE A CUT OUT OF THE FRAME. NOW THIS PART IS TRICKY. THE BOLT THAT IS ON THE SIDE NEAR THE GRILL IS A BOLT THAT JUSTS SCREWS INTO THE CHROME HEADLIGHT BEZEL. IT DOES NOT COME OUT. ONCE YOU BEGIN CRANKING ON IT YOU WILL SEE THE BEZEL BEGIN TO COME OUT AWAY FROM THE TRUCK. AND YES YOU WILL CRANK AND CRANK AND CRANK UNTIL YOU THAT SIDE IS LOOSE WHEN YOU PULL THE BEZEL TOWARD YOU ON THAT SIDE. THE OTHER SIDE IS A THREADED BOLT THAT IS BUILT INTO THE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY AND IT HAS A 7/16 NUT ON IT. BE SUPER SUPER CAREFUL NOT TO DROP THAT NUT WHEN YOU GET TO THE END OF THE THREAD, I USED A MAGENTIC REACH TO GET IT WHEN IT WAS AT THE END OF THE BOLT. AFTER YOU'VE DONE THIS AND REMOVED THE 2 TOP SCREWS THE BEZEL WILL COME RIGHT OFF. REMOVE THE LIGHT SOCKETS FROM THE BEZEL AND PUT IT ASIDE. NOW YOU WILL SEE 3 U-SHAPED RETAINER CLIPS THAT HOLD THE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY IN PLACE, DO NOT BE CONFUSED WHEN YOU SEE THE SCREWS IN THE ASSEMBLY, THEY ARE NOT PART OF REMOVING THE HEADLIGHTS AT ALL. I STRONGLY RECOMMEND BUYING THESE CLIPS BEFORE YOU EVEN START. THEY ARE REALLY HARD TO GET OUT AND ARE SOMETIMES RUSTY AND ARE VERY PRONE TO BEING BRITTLE AND BREAK. IF YOU BREAK THEM AND DO NOT HAVE REPLACEMENTS THE NEW ASSEMBLY WILL FALL OUT, THE BEZEL DOES NOT HOLD IT IN PLACE. HERE IS A DIAGRAM OF THE CLIPS http://www.lmctruck.com/ICATALOG/FD/full.aspx?Page=146 NUMBER 5 IS THE PART. IF YOU HAVE PURCHASED SIDEMARKERS AND TURN SIGNALS YOU WILL REPLACE THEM ON THE BEZEL BEFORE RE-INSTALLING IT. REVERSE INSTRUCTIONS TO PUT BACK TOGETHER.
PASSENGER SIDE: YOU MIGHT HAVE TO REMOVE THE BATTERY. AGAIN DEPENDING ON YOUR HAND SIZE YOU MAY NEED TO ALSO REMOVE THE BATTERY TRAY. I DID REMOVE THE TRAY, IT TOOK ABOUT 5 MIN AND IT GAVE ME SO MUCH MORE ROOM TO WORK, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU HAVE TO BE SO CARERFUL WITH THAT LITTLE 7/16 NUT. REMOVAL IS THE SAME ON THIS SIDE.
REMEMBER, SINCE YOU WILL BE PROBABLY FACING THE GRILL WHEN YOU REMOVE THE BOLTS AND NUTS THE CRANKING IS OPPOSITE. CRANKING RIGHT WILL LOOSEN AND CRANKING LEFT WILL TIGHTEN...
THIS IS THE WAY I HAVE EXPERIENCED CHANGING THEM OUT SO I CANNOT SAY IF THE PRODECURE WILL BE COMPLETELY THE SAME FOR YOU BUT IT SHOULD PROVIDE A GOOD DIRECTION BASE....
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE ASK ME, HOPE THIS IS WAS DETAILED ENOUGH FOR YOU
Great write up,
Much better then the book,.. Pulled mine out today.
New ones were ordered yesterday so once they get here, Should be good to go..
Thanks,
Ant
