Need help-question on codes
Nobody double checks code definitions? C'mon, super charger bypass failure? That would be the first clue. I don't know where you got your code definitions, but they are totally wrong and you're buying parts that you have no codes for. I'll go with the newest posted codes.
31=EVP circuit below minimum voltage
61= ECT reads 254<deg.>F or circuit grounded
81= air management 2 circuit failure
82= air management 1 circuit failure
84= EGR vacuum solenoid circuit failure
85= Canister purge solenoid circuit failure
87= fuel pump primary circuit failure
98= electronic pressure control driver open in PCM (E4OD) or hard fault present
It appears that someone has removed all smog and pollution control devices from the truck. You can't find them and neither can the computer. The coolant temperature sensor is going to cause some problems if it isn't functioning right. You need to test the voltage the fuel pump is receiving, I'd start at the relay. 98 is worrysome if it's a hard fault but if it's the tranny code then those usually go away after the running problem is fixed.
31=EVP circuit below minimum voltage
61= ECT reads 254<deg.>F or circuit grounded
81= air management 2 circuit failure
82= air management 1 circuit failure
84= EGR vacuum solenoid circuit failure
85= Canister purge solenoid circuit failure
87= fuel pump primary circuit failure
98= electronic pressure control driver open in PCM (E4OD) or hard fault present
It appears that someone has removed all smog and pollution control devices from the truck. You can't find them and neither can the computer. The coolant temperature sensor is going to cause some problems if it isn't functioning right. You need to test the voltage the fuel pump is receiving, I'd start at the relay. 98 is worrysome if it's a hard fault but if it's the tranny code then those usually go away after the running problem is fixed.
i'm new at all of this as far as trying to fix stuff, but here are some pics that may help. i truly appreciate any and all help!
it appears as though someone did remove all of the emmissions stuff, but that still doesn't help me since the pictures of the engine in my manuals (and any pics online) don't match up... the oil filler is even on the wrong valve cover. i need to first identify what i'm dealing with as far as the engine. i couldn't find any markings on the block. is there somewhere in particular where i should look?
http://sicontheweb.com/truck/engine1.jpg
http://sicontheweb.com/truck/engine2.jpg
http://sicontheweb.com/truck/engine3.jpg
http://sicontheweb.com/truck/engine4.jpg
http://sicontheweb.com/truck/engine5.jpg
http://sicontheweb.com/truck/inpark.mov
and for s's and grins
http://sicontheweb.com/truck/truck1.jpg
http://sicontheweb.com/truck/truck2.jpg
again, any, and all help, is greatly appreciated!!!
it appears as though someone did remove all of the emmissions stuff, but that still doesn't help me since the pictures of the engine in my manuals (and any pics online) don't match up... the oil filler is even on the wrong valve cover. i need to first identify what i'm dealing with as far as the engine. i couldn't find any markings on the block. is there somewhere in particular where i should look?
http://sicontheweb.com/truck/engine1.jpg
http://sicontheweb.com/truck/engine2.jpg
http://sicontheweb.com/truck/engine3.jpg
http://sicontheweb.com/truck/engine4.jpg
http://sicontheweb.com/truck/engine5.jpg
http://sicontheweb.com/truck/inpark.mov
and for s's and grins
http://sicontheweb.com/truck/truck1.jpg
http://sicontheweb.com/truck/truck2.jpg
again, any, and all help, is greatly appreciated!!!
Hey, welcome to the forums, looking forward to the pics so we can "get down to business" with this thing.
What part of MD you from? I'm from Cecil County.
...and you're no jack*****, you seem to be mechanically inclined, which is a plus!
EDIT: I appear to be the jack*****, I posted before reading page 2 - opppss...
What part of MD you from? I'm from Cecil County.
...and you're no jack*****, you seem to be mechanically inclined, which is a plus!
EDIT: I appear to be the jack*****, I posted before reading page 2 - opppss...
Last edited by hackersmovie; Apr 20, 2010 at 11:28 PM.
Well, from the picks it's certainly a Windsor small block. I appears to be a 5.0L out of a Mustang. That is certianly a Mustang intake. It also appears to have aftermarket valve covers, no biggie there. It also appears to be MAF, which it wasn't before, it was MAP. Whatcha got there is a frankenmotor.
Hopefully JCMS and Ymeski will be able to sort out some more details and hopefully get cha' going. I'm of no use, but interested....
Hopefully JCMS and Ymeski will be able to sort out some more details and hopefully get cha' going. I'm of no use, but interested....
i can't tell you guys how much i appreciate the help. once i can identify what i'm dealing with, i can start the troubleshooting.
oh, yes, trust me, i am a jack*****!
i'm in southern maryland, calvert county.
honestly, i'm going to have to google the "now it's a MAF and it was a MAP."
i really don't understand the engine losing all power when it is put into gear. i moved around the distributor a bit to adjust the timing but need to get a light on it. hopefully, this afternoon.
i did notice some wear on the gear under the distributor. should this be replaced? is a little wear normal?
is there any marking on the block that could aid in identifying this engine?
seriously, thanks again for all of you guys taking the time and helping out!
i'm looking forward to saying that the frankenmotor is ALIVE- it's ALIVE!!!"
oh, yes, trust me, i am a jack*****!
i'm in southern maryland, calvert county.
honestly, i'm going to have to google the "now it's a MAF and it was a MAP."
i really don't understand the engine losing all power when it is put into gear. i moved around the distributor a bit to adjust the timing but need to get a light on it. hopefully, this afternoon.
i did notice some wear on the gear under the distributor. should this be replaced? is a little wear normal?
is there any marking on the block that could aid in identifying this engine?
seriously, thanks again for all of you guys taking the time and helping out!
i'm looking forward to saying that the frankenmotor is ALIVE- it's ALIVE!!!"
Wander around this link for more info, especially definitions/ explanations. http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/
So... here's just a thought. (JCMS and Ymeski will correct me)
If the vehicle used to be MAP and is now MAF, how is it producing 2 digit error codes? I thought all MAF vehicles would produce a 3 digit code. Could the issue be the wrong ECU?
If the vehicle used to be MAP and is now MAF, how is it producing 2 digit error codes? I thought all MAF vehicles would produce a 3 digit code. Could the issue be the wrong ECU?
That was one of my many many thoughts on the truck. I would have to see the truck and do some research to figure it out. They probably used a Mustang computer too if it is a Mustang engine. Maybe the Mustang had MAF earlier than the truck finally got it.
Yes it did, thats why mustangs are prized as MAF computer donors (Manual trans.). Don't know much about when MAP's were added in addition to MAF on stangs & f-150's other than they were. People that do mods like this aught to keep a truck diary to pass on to the next owner. ECT's probably pooched,but check wires too, see if your showing a complete circuit there. If I ever buy another used truck, I'm running error codes before any money changes hands! Minimum! I always recommend a compression test too. But that's another story.
Last edited by ymeski56; Apr 22, 2010 at 12:32 AM.
i again appreciate all of the input and am trying to digest and educate myself on all of this stuff. i didn't have much time, but i did mess with the timing a bit last night. without the spout connector, the truck wouldn't run.
after some adjustment it is running without the spout connector and has a bit of power. i should be a ble to get a light on it this evening and see what that does.
any advice on getting the timing right? i did see a groove on the pulley bracket. are there markings on the pulley itself? i couldn't see any from above but haven't looked closely though. how do i ensure i have the #1 cylinder at top dead center?
research for the day- properly set timing on a 302
after some adjustment it is running without the spout connector and has a bit of power. i should be a ble to get a light on it this evening and see what that does.
any advice on getting the timing right? i did see a groove on the pulley bracket. are there markings on the pulley itself? i couldn't see any from above but haven't looked closely though. how do i ensure i have the #1 cylinder at top dead center?
research for the day- properly set timing on a 302




