I have a 1995 f-150 2x2- 6cyl- manual- long bed

I want to get the most towing capacity I can,

It looks like 3.55 would get me 3500 lbs.

How difficult is it too change gears from 2.73 too 3.55.

Is 3.55 the best I can do?

Where do I buy the gears?

Anything else I should add or buy?

Would I be better off having a shop do it.

What should I expect to Pay.

I have done things like brake work, oil pans, pumps, but never
any rear end stuff.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

 

Best you can do? I don't get it. You can get gears clear on up to 4.56:1.

You can buy them at any auto parts stores or online or at your dealer - look around!

You should also buy a "master rebuild kit". It will include all new bearings, races, seals, pinion crush collar and pinion nut.

Yes, have a shop do it, specifically a Ford Dealer, they'll have the special depth setting tool for your 8.8" rear to get the pinion depth set correctly.

Expect to pay what it costs to get it done.

 

Suggest the towing capacity problem is not with the rear axle ratio, but more with the Mazda-based transmission limitations.

Had a '75 F100 with three-on-the-tree that I swapped in a four-on-the-floor from a 1-ton. Beefy dude, only problem was that it was really a three speed with a stump pulling gear. High gear had the engine sounding like it was going to come unglued at about 70mph. People used to be impressed when I said that it would get rubber in 3 gears, until they figured out the first two chirps were below 5mph. :-)~ But, I digress.

The difficulty with changing the gears is getting the new set to mesh correctly. Haven't done this myself, but know that it involves dial gauges and shim packs and bluing dye to do properly - more than I care to get into. Would seem to be much better off swapping an entire axle from a donor - and likely the same cost or probably less, much less than a gearset plus installation.

LMCtruck.com or rockauto.com likely have gearsets - there are many resources. These gears ain't cheap - so be prepared. Just be thankful it's not 4WD, else everything is 'times 2'.

The popular ratios I've seen are 2.73, 3.08, 3.55 (the most popular, by far), 3.73, 4.11, and 4.56. Larger than 4.56 - starts getting iffy, depending on the axle housing size - after all, only so small on the pinion and so large on the ring that one can go while maintaining proper gear contact and mechanical robustness.

Whether it's less expensive to change the axle, or to change the transmission to a beefier style - dunno.

 

That would be your best bet for a stock gear ratio. You're going to pay $150-200 for gears, $75 or so for the install kit, and if you aren't sure what you're doing another couple hundred to get them installed (which really isn't that hard, I've helped with a few and if you just take your time it goes pretty easy). I usually go to Randy's Ring and Pinion for gears.

I've seen used axles go for around $100 around me.

 

Thank you guys for the input. I contacted a few places for prices. I am not as bad off as I thought. I found my manual and I have the 3.31 not the 2.73. That gives me 2900 lbs. The 3.55 would give me 3600 lbs.

I want to pull a boat and trailer(with brakes) that weigh 2950 plus 250 for motor = 3200 lbs.

Someone suggested taller tires would take care of the difference between the
gear ratios. Now I have to figure out how much taller of a tire I need. I am going to need a new set in another 10k anyway so if that works I would do it. Just need to adjust the speedometer.
Any thoughts on this idea.
Thanks again!!

 

I don't think you'll have a problem pulling your boat with what you have.
I've pulled a 3500 lb trailer and my truck has 2.73 gears.. same exact setup except the gears.

 

Uh, not to be Johnny Raincloud - but to increase your effective axle ratio - you would need 'shorter' tires - smaller diameter.

Wondering where you are getting your info - have scrounged widely, but haven't been able to find specific data for manual trannies - but the automatic 4.9L with 3.55s for your year comes up at 5600 lbs towing capacity. http://trailerboats.com/sharedcode/f...mit=&x=56&y=21

Don't forget any gear - fuel tanks, skis, coolers of beverages, added accessories, etc. - that may add to the total towing weight, not included in the documented weight specs.

 

As far as adjusting the speedometer - eh, I just figured out the error, and slapped a label on the speedo dial.

For example, my Jeep https://www.f150forum.com/garage/2872 has 33x12.50s but originally came with H78-15s - figured that to be a 10% diameter difference, so just have a label to remind me that I am going 10% faster than the speedo shows.

Quick-n-easy -- that's the ticket, well, as long as it's not a speeding ticket :-)~

 

Your speedometer is electronic. There is a way to recalibrate it without buying anything but I don't know how to do it. It's posted around somewhere if you search. Something about pressing and holding the trip odometer or something.

 

Some one else said the same thing-go with shorter and maybe wider too.

Yes, Automatic for some reason gives increased towing capacity with 3.55 than the Manual 5spd - I found this in the manual.

Thanks for the correction.