Yep, I've seen that movie. The solid PIP error code w/o grounding to the dist. is #211. When actually grounded to the Dist. can produce #212. I do seem to remember "JCMS" mentioning another cause for #212 recently. Remember to mark the dist. & rotor position, don't budge the engine ect, ect....

 

hey ymeski i'm not seeing anything on fordfuelinjection or autozone about pip sensor. Could autozone have it as pickup coil??

 

I'm trying to figure it out. The PIP is a good candidate but the code isn't quite right for me.

 

Aka Hall Effect Switch/sensor. I think pickup coil works too.

 

ha now that i saw the 211 Profile ignition pickup so i figured it out now. and i'll answer my own question

 

Or "Stator" for the older boys. http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=25

 

welll replaced the pip sensor yesterday ran fine when i test drove it last night. went to the gas station this mornin died on the way back... any new ideas?? i keep replacing parts that evidentally aren't the problem and my funds are gettin low...

 

Well, I don't think a $12. PIP was a bank breaker, but I know what your saying. What do you think would happen to you at a shop? Most don't even have an OBD1 code reader or would read codes manually. So anyway. Run codes,#1. when in running state & #2. when not in running state. Provide results for both #3.Check for spark & #4.fuel pressure when not running. Provide results for both #5.How long, or what has to occur before the engine returns to life? Provide Info #6. Does the engine come back to life after dieing, if you disconnect the battery for 5 mins? Provide results. If Depending on results, barring comprised wiring & good PCM & F/P relay's, the ECU is the next stop (PIP's are a lot cheaper date). #7 Does it seem like it drops out about the same time it reaches operating temp & closed loop function begins? Provide info. Not being there to preform the tests/ exclusions needed to rule out the variables, all we can do is work w/ what we're told. Information that is usually lacking in completeness, sometimes accuracy & sometimes legitimacy (I ran Error code scans & had no codes!). So, there's your list of questions who's answers are needed to venture an educated guess at finding your truck's driveability problem. Lets see how you do! There's plenty of plenty of people that can trouble shoot better than than us. They're out there somewhere! Your welcome to keep looking. In fact, my Mentors are "subford" & "way to old". Google them! But you better hurry, they're already older than dirt! ......Or, here's pretty much all you need to know to do it yourself: http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=1 The last thing we want, is to have someone buy unneeded parts! After 2.1K posts on this Forum alone, I'm pretty happy w/ my accuracy, considering I've never actually seen 1 of the trucks. Although, except for replacing a VSS & changing oil & plugs, I haven't even worked on my truck in over 3 yrs., but that's another story.

 

well the pip was $25 here and the tfi/icm was $42, plus the act and ect which were $20 a piece. the old ladys gettin tired of it cause everytime i buy a part she says this better fix it. it's the exact same problem it has been. it runs fine until it reaches normal operating temp. which on my truck i have a cooler thermostat so it sits right below the n of normal. after the pip yesterday i check my timing to make sure it was still up to par and after i got done with everything i unhooked the battery for 5 minutes to clear everything and then let it warm up and checked it for codes again before i took it for a test drive and jsut got 111. this morning after it died code 212 popped up again so it wasn't the pip. i have checked to make sure it has fuel I hit the fuel line on the purge or whatever on the fuel rail and it had enough pressure to shoot a solid stream up to the hood, i don't have a fuel pressure tester but i just replaced the fuel pump last october. it starts with a little cutout then it gets worse until when you hit the throttle it acts like its going to die and idles at 200rpm. yes it will start backup after cooling down but still runs like **** unless its sat for a day or two. i'm not really sure of a good way to check for spark other than sticking a file in the coil wire and grounding it to the fenderwell. but it's got a new msd 60k coil and new ford racing 9mm wires and i really don't feel like taking a jolt from that. i haven't tried disconnecting the battery for 5 mins. after it dies so i suppose i'll try that before i try to get it back home.

 

i know the 212 is loss of idm input to eec or spout circuit grounded, any idea what could cause that?