I've already submitted a similar post in the intro section. Basically, after replacing the egr valve, the position sensor, AND the vacuum solenoid, along with ALL vacuum lines, still getting the 33 code. Any suggestions?

 

Moved to 87'-96' section. Welcome to the Forum!

 

thanks for the help....I know I'll be making many errors here, at least in the beginning, so no one should be afraid to offer any help or tips that may help me learn my way around. If I can get some quality responses to any question that I may ask then it will all be worth it. It just seems to be so hard to get good advice these days, so I can recognize the value of a forum where people with real experience can directly interact with you.

 

You'll need to make sure the EGR is actually working.

 

the valve itself? that's what I replaced Friday. Still get the code.

 

Yes nice you replaced it. Now make sure it works.

 

I guess it could be bad out of the box, they did sneak me a T-series model instead of the SMP280, but I'm leaning on an electrical issue or maybe the ECM isn't telling the brand new vacuum solenoid to do its job. Right now I gotta go change out my brake pads but if you or anybody has any suggestions I will reply when I get a chance. Thanks a lot.

 

unfortunatly I have no hand vacuum pump. Maybe I can rent one from the parts store.

 

It shouldn't move at idle or wide open throttle. Not the greatest test but I'll play with the throttle and see if it moves any. You can put an engine vacuum to it just to see if it moves.

 

hey sean I appreciate the tip. I did like you said and saw the poppet move when connected to manifold vacuum, so I guess the egr valve is okay. since then i've checked out the wiring schematic for that engine and found that the red wire that connects to the vacuum solenoid seems to be spliced in with several other sensors and things, including all fuel injectors. the green wire seems to be a dedicated wire back to the ECM. This is of course if i am reading the haynes manual correctly. maybe you have some input on that. I can't actually see the wires as they are wrapped up in plastic and tape but i did put my signal tracer i use at work on the green wire and it rang out, so i replaced the wire, thinking that if the red wire had a problem or short then all the other sensors and things that it runs to would also be having problems. but there are no other issues it seems, there are no other codes being kicked out. however after having replaced the wire i am still getting the code, so now i am going to try to run a second "red" wire from the firewall up to the vacuum solenoid, while still leaving the original one intact so as not to cut the signal to the other devices (just going to unplug it from the solenoid). we'll see if this works, if not i just don't know what's next. I'd say to just forget about it but the spark plugs get bridged in 4 or 5 weeks with white crusty build up which i believe is from the combustion environment being too hot. i am completely over taking em out and cleaning them off once a month, ya know? thanks again for helping me before and will check back here later today.