On my 1996 F150 XLT (5.0 liter) each time I start it never wants to go to high idle. It is challenging sometimes to get started. No matter what the outside temperature, it will never increase the rpm’s after starting. Giving it gas during cranking makes it even worse – it usually will not start at all. I changed the plugs/wires/cap/rotor/coil but no difference. There are no codes shown. Any help would be appreciated.

 

You step on the throttle, the TPS sends that rich signal you loaded the engine with that huge gulp of air. So, the computer factors in that suck at the intake manifold and your throttle position to the floor boards = Rich! Hard Starting?

If it has low idle but idles = Who cares it starts cold and does it start right up warm like running temp warm? See, if it does, no problems is the ambient. You made it worse by out thinking the morning map choke trim?

 

Your idle air control valve is probaby the culprit. It doesn't post a code, but tends to get gummed up. It's on the drivers side of the throttle body, looks like a roll of quarters with a wiring connector on the end.

2 bolts and it's removed, and you can see if it moves. Worth a try to clean it with carb cleaner, but usually it ends up needing to be replaced (about $50).

 

Well wait a minute. We gonna throw parts at it because it idles perfect when warm? Let him answer is 50 bucks is vinegar spray my rod actuator. If that does not cut it then spray contact cleaner in the water is keep spraying with engine running. See if it cuts the gas varnish. It's a pivot pin if you are moving one end and the other end is X to Y is the straight line of the rod. So you spraying the at the right places or cannot get to the pivot points is bucks up is salvage a non-coded part that has no internal electrical damage?

jhp?

 

Your responses are so cryptic and ... odd. I'm sure some appreciate you trying to help but you may want to try harder in the explanation part.

 

Thanks for the replies. I should add that I tolerated this until the other day when it would not start after being driven for 20+ minutes. Since it never rev's when being started, it just wouldn't start - and trying to feather the gas while cranking didn't help. I'll see about cleaning or replacing the IAC valve as suggested and post back the results.

 

Just to give an update - I pulled and cleaned the valve with contact cleaner, and it seems to have made a small difference when starting the engine cold. But after it has warmed up, it still has the behavior of barely having enough to keep it started after cranking. My backup plan is to carry a can of starting fluid with me. Thanks again.

 

Did you clean the throttle body while you were at it? If you remove the air intake tubes, you might be surprised at how much black junk is caked on the butterflies in there.

A couple of other routine ideas - have you changed the air and fuel filters?

You might visually check the battery cables too. Sometimes they get corroded and provide too much resistance when hot. The negative cable is usually the one to watch.