at a loss on a stalling issue
new issue on the new truck.
this has happened three times, all on an engine that was not fully warm, but not dead cold either.
at a stop, sometime between letting my foot off the brake and hitting the gas it stalls. no slam, no sputter, just stops running.
here are the things i've checked:
pulled codes, KOEO 565-canister purge solenoid circuit failure
KOER - nothing.
fuel pressure tests - 40 psi koeo with fuel test port jumper in place, pull jumper drops quickly to zero. pinch return line, drops to zero at the same rate, pinch supply line also drops to zero at same rate.
TFI bench tested and passed (pulled from warm engine that had just stalled in the autozone parking lot, then tested four times consecutively, so i don't think it's a hot failure)
has spark to plugs, plugs have all been gapped and cleaned, all look shiny new.
have a new coil, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, cap and rotor, and timing was just adjusted.
it is slow to start cold, but quick to start warm. runs and idles fine warm and cold, other than the stalling issue.
smells a hair on the rich side at idle, but i've been told it would smell scary-rich if the injectors were leaking enough to cause this major of a pressure leakdown. i'd be happy to test them if someone could tell me how, as neither the chilton nor the haynes i have give any instructions on testing them.
any ideas? my understanding of the evap system leads me to believe that the purge canister solenoid failure wouldn't be likely to cause this issue, but i don't know for sure.
this has happened three times, all on an engine that was not fully warm, but not dead cold either.
at a stop, sometime between letting my foot off the brake and hitting the gas it stalls. no slam, no sputter, just stops running.
here are the things i've checked:
pulled codes, KOEO 565-canister purge solenoid circuit failure
KOER - nothing.
fuel pressure tests - 40 psi koeo with fuel test port jumper in place, pull jumper drops quickly to zero. pinch return line, drops to zero at the same rate, pinch supply line also drops to zero at same rate.
TFI bench tested and passed (pulled from warm engine that had just stalled in the autozone parking lot, then tested four times consecutively, so i don't think it's a hot failure)
has spark to plugs, plugs have all been gapped and cleaned, all look shiny new.
have a new coil, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, cap and rotor, and timing was just adjusted.
it is slow to start cold, but quick to start warm. runs and idles fine warm and cold, other than the stalling issue.
smells a hair on the rich side at idle, but i've been told it would smell scary-rich if the injectors were leaking enough to cause this major of a pressure leakdown. i'd be happy to test them if someone could tell me how, as neither the chilton nor the haynes i have give any instructions on testing them.
any ideas? my understanding of the evap system leads me to believe that the purge canister solenoid failure wouldn't be likely to cause this issue, but i don't know for sure.
In what manner did you pull the codes? The paperclip method detailed here in the tech forums works really well. I've seen hidden codes get pulled using this method, codes that a code reader doesn't show. The faulty purge solenoid could have something to do with your starting issue. Also, check the cleanliness and tightness of all your battery related connections. If it leaks down that fast, chances are it's an injector leakage issue. Pinch off the return line while pressuring the rail KOEO, this will indicate that. If it turns out to be that, check into EV6 injectors. They are 19lb/hr injectors, just from a 97 explorer 5.0 with a better pintle design. I purchased mine from a shop in Orlando. They were rebuilt, warranties and under 100 bucks shipped to my door. It also may be worth your time to pull the IAC from the throttlebody and give it a good mild solvent soak and scrubbing. Good luck.
i determined that my #1 injector is leaking. would it be worthwhile to try cleaning it first, or should i just go ahead and replace?
your price on injectors, was that per injector? new ones run $135 each for motorcraft or $65 for BWD here.
your price on injectors, was that per injector? new ones run $135 each for motorcraft or $65 for BWD here.
The only thing that gets replaced on a "rebuilt" injector is the filter and end cap...they are not a serviceable part. You could be buying something with 300k on it and never know. I'd go new if it was me.
right now i'm cleaning the one in the hope i don't have to replace it this week. if it doesn't work, i'll replaces it in a couple weeks, along with all the others, just to be balanced.
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went to oreilly to get a new injector, the one they have has 4 ports, like an EV6, the stock ones i have are the EV1 style. it looks physically interchangeable, will it work if i just change the one? i don't have the cash to change all 8 right now
You can, but it's a much better idea to change all of them at the same time. If all of them are worn at the same rate, they are all flowing relatively the same amount of fuel. If you put one new injector in there that's flowing the stock rate when the others are flowing half of that, the computer can't compensate right.
You can, but it's a much better idea to change all of them at the same time. If all of them are worn at the same rate, they are all flowing relatively the same amount of fuel. If you put one new injector in there that's flowing the stock rate when the others are flowing half of that, the computer can't compensate right.
hopefully i'll be returning that oreilly injector.
also, i looked at my injectors in the light, and it appears i have the EV6 after all, or at least, mine have 4 holes, not just one.

