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Longblock swap

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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 10:35 PM
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Default Longblock swap

I'm in the process of finding the best bet for a rebuilt motor. I found a rebuilt 302 roller out of a 95 Mustang Cobra for $750. Getting this already built and adding my intake, oil pan, and accessories seems better than $2800 to rebuild mine...

This brings some questions up:

The firing order is different - can I simply swap 3-5 and 4-7 (I think those are the ones) at the dist and be ok, or do I need to change the cam?

It has a B303 cam in it - fairly rough idle for an auto? Is this going to cause a stalling issue at idle that would require a different cam anyway?

Is there something else that I'm missing? Should I look for an older motor that more closely matches what I've got to avoid spending more money making it work?
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 01:56 AM
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Just swapping the plug wires won't work because the fuel injectors will keep spraying the original firing order. You would have to rewire them too. Better to just put the correct cam in. If they are roller lifters then lobe wear will be very minimal if you use yours. I don't remember your truck year, it's MAP right? The Mustang would be MAF and those cams don't work well with MAP if I remember correctly.
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 10:06 AM
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I figured I would be overlooking something... So you think my old cam will work with that?

My truck is MAP - it's a 91.
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 02:47 PM
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along with being MAP isn't a 91 also batch fire? i would suggest you put your original cam in also but with your original lifters from the same positions. i don't like mismatching those two components, that brings up another point though, if your cam isn't roller them i don't know if you could even use roller lifters with it. MAP computers do not like any internal mods. small issue but the mustang valve covers won't work on your truck. you might wanna through a new oil pump and pick-up on it b4 you swap your pan on. i think your gonna need to swap your timing cover and water pump too. i remember those being alot different on those 94-95 body style cars.
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 03:28 PM
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Yes '91 is batch fire. Using different roller lifters isn't supposed to matter because they barely wear but I still would use the ones with your cam and in the original location anyways. If your cam isn't roller then definitely use your lifters in the original location or get a new cam and lifters. I don't know if you can use roller lifters on a non-roller engine either. You might be able to with different length pushrods but I think there is some kind of special bridge that keeps them straight or something like that. I don't remember what is required to make them work.
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 04:16 PM
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Yeah... this is getting ugly.

Humor me this - he also has a freshly rebuilt 95 cobra rotating assembly - block bored, new pistons, crank, bearings, etc.

I should be able to put my old heads, cam, oil pump/pan, etc. on that and be ok wouldn't I?

Or should I keep looking for the right match?
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 05:17 PM
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yes there are bridges to keep each set of lifters strait, there is also a spring "spider" to hold all eight of those bridges down. your block has to be machined with the holes for the two bolts that hold down the spring "spider".

whether you go with the shortblock or long block your still gonna have to change the cam and lifters, i don't think it will be quite as bad as you think.
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 05:45 PM
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So let's say I avoid the roller cam and heads - can I put my 91 cam and heads in the 95 block? Or are there still going to be issues?
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 05:59 PM
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I'm pretty sure everything from a non-roller block will bolt in a roller block. Dixie will know for sure I'll bet.
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 06:10 PM
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I just hope it's not a dumb idea in the long run - the valves on my current motor have been checked over 3 times and no issues found, but I wonder how long they'll stay that way.

As you've probably noticed, I'm trying to find the right balance between doing it cheap and doing it right...
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