Any one know if you can change the bulbs from that indigo green to red or amber? Do they make bulbs specific for the cluster in diff colors besides green?

 

the bulbs themselves are clear. So if you want it to be a different color, you've gotta get a bulb of the color you want, and hope that its bright enough that it'll shine through the green film. I've seen someone swap in blue before, and it turned out pretty good.

 

Oh, theres no way to change the color of the film? any idea where to get the diff color bulbs?

 

When I had it apart, I didn't look at it that closely. I'll dig out my old cluster and check it out tonight. I'd assume you could find the bulbs in the ricer section at VatoZone.

 

Sounds about right. Just don't like that ugly indigo green

 

came up, I googled 92 f-150 instrument cluster and I think on Amazon, there were colour-changing overlays or some such available. You might have to do some digging...

Otherwise, changing bulbs should work if they're bright enough, but remember your colour theory - I assume the green's an overlay, so consider your coloured lights will be shining through green - blue might make yellow, for example.

 

Yellow and blue make green. Blue and green would make a different shade of green.

 

I just ran into the same problem as the guy from the Bronco site about the truck not charging after the cluster swap. My truck: 94 F150 XL, M5R2 5-spd. The cluster I got is from a 93, which means I'm going to have to re-pin the connector so its wired up correctly since the PCBs ("Printed Circuit Board") on the back of the clusters are different. When it comes to doing electrical stuff I'm a monkey doing a math problem so I'm having my Dad (engineer ) help me with it next weekend. Will write down everything for a how-to.

General info for those who are learning like me:
1 - Each cluster has two PCB's on the back of them.
2 - My original one (minus tach) has a red full sheet and a yellow half sheet PCB on the back.
3 - The 93 cluster to be installed has full yellow and full red sheets.
4 - There are 3 plugs in the back of the cluster that connect through the PCBs. The middle one is the speedo. The 2 on the sides have 14 numbered positions and colored-wire pins and are not specific to either PCB. Meaning leftside Pin 1 connects the red PCB and leftside Pin 2 connects to the yellow PCB. Same thing on the other side. Its not left side is the red PCD and the right side is the yellow.
5 - Removing the wires from from the connectors is not difficult, I've already tried it (successfully) without damaging the plastic connector or metal tip on the wire. I just don't know how to read electrical diagrams so I can rewire it on my own.

I can't read them but if anyone needs an electrical diagram I can scan them and send them to you.

 

We got started this last weekend. Unfortunately we weren't able to finished it because of social obligations. I'll put up some pics in a couple of days as I continue what my Dad started.

Watch out! A monkey with a multimeter!

 

My Dad came up with an alternate way to do this without me losing all my marbles.

He found a copy of a EVTM ("Electrical & Vacuum Trouble-shooting Manual") and sent it to me. After seeing that manual I immediately ordered a EVTM for a 93 and will be looking for one for my "new" 92 F250. An EVTM is an awesome tool to have. Since I'm going from one gage cluster to another that is of a different production sequence and having to re-pin the connectors this book will remove all the brain-cell destruction from the job. This manual has tons of diagrams and connector/pin listings.

EVERYONE NEEDS ONE OF THESE MANUALS!

I'm waiting for the 93 copy to come in. Then this task will take about 30 minutes of work to complete. Here's the diagram for the gage cluster connectors for a 94. I'll put up the diagram from the 93 manual once it gets here.