Hello.

I don't usually post on here but I'm trying to make sense of all this.

First things first: I have a 95 F150, 302, AT, 4WD, 208K on the odo but 90K on new engine.

When I say "new" engine, it's a 5.0L that supposedly came from a running Mustang.

I've already done all the basic crap. New plugs, wires, distributor cap, checked fuel injectors, pretty much every gasket in the engine is new, new fuel pump, and new fuel filter.

Now, on to the codes:

KOEO, I'm getting
55: No or low (under 7 5 V) Key Power to PCM pin 5
56: Vane Air Flow (VAF) or Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor high - VAF MAF
65: Check intermittent HO2S (signal or ground) - Fuel Control

Running, I'm getting
311: AIR system not working - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Air Injection
332: EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittantly - EVR or PFE
538: System did not receive "goose" test - TESTS
536: Brake On Off open or shorted to ground - BOO
632: E4OD - Transmission Control Switch (TCS) should be cycled once between engine ID and Goose test

That's a bundle, I know. It runs just ok. It feels like it could have more power than what I'm getting from a 302 (especially with only 90K on it).

Here's the bottom line. I'm NOT throwing hundreds of dollars into this. It doesn't have to run 100%, it JUST needs to pass inspection. Then it's getting sold.

If anyone has some insight to some of these codes, please do tell.

Thanks in advance.

 

It could feel down on power due to the fact that mustang engines are meant to have more top end than a truck engine, so you're not gonna have truck power in the lower register

 

I believe you would also need the pcm from the stang to have proper timing control as well as injector pulse width strategies. The stang engine has different cams etc and needs the operating strategies to go with it. The truck pcm is programmed differently.

Not certain but you might also need different fuel injectors.

 

That makes sense, however, a 302 is a 302.

Everything, and I mean everything, except for the oil pan, was an exact fit. I didn't have to do any jimmy rigging or buy anything special or separate. Hell, I even bought the complete gasket set for an F150 (instead of a Mustang), and everything fit perfectly.

The firing order is the exact same and works great, HOWEVER, you are correct about the top end statement. When I get above 45 mph, the thing runs awesome!

Every sensor and plug was even a direct swap. No modifications of any sort.

The only thing that works differently is the temp gauge. It wants to climb backwards instead of climbing toward the "H".

LOL would the PCM for a Mustang even plug in to the F150 wiring harness?

EDIT: Just Googled it. The Mustang and F150 PCMs are identical on the outside. I'll be going to the boneyard tomorrow. Let's see if it makes any difference.

Hehe what if I pull a cam for an F150 from the yard and throw that in real quick?

Double EDIT: Just Googled a "goose" test, as well. Evidently, I didn't perform the "Engine Running" test correctly. I didn't know I was supposed to "goose" the throttle at a certain point. LoL one more code solved...

 

OK starting with the engine running , it kinds looks like the engine wasn't warmed up and you didn't perform the test properly. Follow the sticky on how to run a self test. You need to rev the engine, hit the brakes, cycle the overdrive button and turn the steering wheel. That covers your goose test, boo test, and TCS. The HO2S ( heated O2 sensor ) may be due to a cold engine or the wrong O2 sensor, same with the MAF code. Pin 5 as I recall is the 12v supply to the PCM. Please verify that then test the pin at the pcm connector with a DMM. If your not getting good power there nothing will work right. So once you check the power and connection, clear the codes and drive the truck around. The with it nice and warm follow the self test procedure and see what comes up. The mustang intake will not produce the low end torque of the truck. Its a large short runner designed for higher RPM. Same with the cam.

 

I understand everything except the intake. Let me be more clear here about why I've done what I've done.

When I pulled the original 208K engine out of the F150, the reason I did so was because of the following reasons:

First, the the plugs pulled out of the heads without the use of tools . Yep, they all just kinda yanked right out by hand. They were THAT rusted.

Also, there was oil EVERYWHERE. I mean all over the valve covers, the entire intake, all over the pulleys, part of the bell housing, and especially the front and rear seals, the oil pan, and the cross member on the frame.

After seeing that, I pulled the engine and ripped the heads off. They were toast, and the cylinders were worn to the point where I could turn the engine upside down and hang curtains from the tops of the cylinders.

So, instead of spending $$$$$ on getting everything machined, I found a 95 Mustang 302 for $250. It was complete minus the distributor and the guy guaranteed me it had 90K miles and ran great. I even saw the car he pulled it from. I didn't ask WHY he was swapping motors, just so long as the one he sold me ran.

At this point, the FIRST thing I did was throw the "new" engine on a stand and immediately pulled the heads. The cylinders still had the friggin crosshatching and there was a BARELY discernible ring at the top. Good block . Now, the heads are the Mustang heads but I DID NOT use the Mustang intake. The F150 intake swapped directly over. No fuss no hassle. LoL I did, however, have to take the heads to a machine shop because I snapped two intake bolts off. Oops...

Then I bought a FULL gasket set for an F150 and changed every gasket there was to change. No issues there. Everything fit perfect.

Then, I put everything back together, but I used the F150 oil pan and oil pickup (they are both different, but a direct bolt in swap). I even used the F150 distributor, pulleys, air pump, and exhaust manifolds. The Mustang block had smaller bores for the exhaust manifold bolts but that was just a matter of getting different hardware. Too easy...

When I first fired it up, it had a BAD miss. So I set the timing according to spec (even pulled that jumper whose name eludes me at the moment) and it ran OK, but I took it to a mechanic because I was getting fed up. He replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter and it now runs A LOT better, but just not perfect.....

Well, just yesterday, I took it for a nice long ride. The CEL finally lit up, so I did a quick Google search which led me to the codes, and finally, posting this thread.

 

OK if you used the truck intake you should be good there. The mustang cam obviously has different specs so I would switch it to one for low end torque. First however take care of that pin 5 issue. Nothing will work right with the pcm not operating properly.
BTW its called the SPOUT connector. ( spark out )

 

Going to the junkyard later today. I'll see if I can't find another PCM (just in case) and some extra relays. Been told they can be the culprit of that "no voltage on pin 5" symptom.

 

Personally I would just take 5 minutes to check for voltage before buying anything. A bad pcm is possible but unlikely. It could just be a loose wire.