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Coolant System - overheating.

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Old May 27, 2013 | 09:29 PM
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Default Coolant System - overheating.

So my upper radiator hose rubbed in my pully after I replaced my alternator and belt. I had never really drove the truck so I'm not sure of that was the cause. But I drove it so didn't think much of it. I replaced the hose today and coolant and drove it for like an hour or so. Longest test drive since I've owned it, because I've finally got it running and road ready since I bought the paper weight. Lol. Well near the end of my drive the temp shot up and seam was coming from under hood. Pulled over, pully rubbed a cut into new upper hose again. I did a quick patch from old hose and clamp to get it home. While on my way home I noticed alot of pressure building up in the upper hose. Like rock solid. I would then lift the radiator cap lift valve and it would release the pressure into the resivoir and the upper hose would soften up. And it would also lower my temp. Now I noticed, my radiator cap is rated at 31 pounds. That can't be right? Pressure was building up so much my hose would swell and touch the pully. Now I know I do not have a blown head gasket. So lets eliminate that. Other than head gasket, what else could cause pressure. Will not having the 13 pound cap make that big of deal? I don't know much about the cooling system to understand the problem. Also, the new coolant I just added is like a light brown color??? With flakes in it it looks like. I think the previous peer put some sort of stop leak additive. I aim to flush and replace radiator, cap, heater core and thermostat. Water pump is new already. Ideas????
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Old May 27, 2013 | 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by stevo44544
So my upper radiator hose rubbed in my pully after I replaced my alternator and belt. I had never really drove the truck so I'm not sure of that was the cause. But I drove it so didn't think much of it. I replaced the hose today and coolant and drove it for like an hour or so. Longest test drive since I've owned it, because I've finally got it running and road ready since I bought the paper weight. Lol. Well near the end of my drive the temp shot up and seam was coming from under hood. Pulled over, pully rubbed a cut into new upper hose again. I did a quick patch from old hose and clamp to get it home. While on my way home I noticed alot of pressure building up in the upper hose. Like rock solid. I would then lift the radiator cap lift valve and it would release the pressure into the resivoir and the upper hose would soften up. And it would also lower my temp. Now I noticed, my radiator cap is rated at 31 pounds. That can't be right? Pressure was building up so much my hose would swell and touch the pully. Now I know I do not have a blown head gasket. So lets eliminate that. Other than head gasket, what else could cause pressure. Will not having the 13 pound cap make that big of deal? I don't know much about the cooling system to understand the problem. Also, the new coolant I just added is like a light brown color??? With flakes in it it looks like. I think the previous peer put some sort of stop leak additive. I aim to flush and replace radiator, cap, heater core and thermostat. Water pump is new already. Ideas????
Simple fix for the rubbing radiator hose is a piece of roof tin put where it rubs. The cap should be 13-18lbs. Higher than that you can burst hoses and radiators. And it sounds like rust in the system. Typical of old engines. Causes are straight water or straight ethylene glycol. (Un pre mixed coolant) flush the system two or 3 times and the loose bits should be gone. A
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Old May 28, 2013 | 09:35 AM
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If you don't have a blown head gasket, the only think I could figure that would be causing the pressure is a clog in your cooling system somewhere that restricts the flow of coolant and causes overheating, steam and then the pressure. If you can get it flushed out real good to include taking the plugs out of the block and flushing the block, refill with new coolant, the cooling system should be fine. You already have a new water pump and are changing the hoses so as long as the radiator is not leaking, the thermostat works, and you have the proper cap on your cooling system, you should be good to go. Like the guy said above, on older vehicles the block can build up rust and scale that blocks the flow of coolant and leaves spots inside the engine that don't get cooled. Flushing and changing the coolant every few years prevents this from happening but lots of folks don't get around to doing it and guys like me and you who drive older trucks have to fix the problems that occur from lack of maintenance.
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Old May 28, 2013 | 10:28 AM
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Sounds like the thermostat is not opening.
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Old May 28, 2013 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by etex
Sounds like the thermostat is not opening.
I appreciate the responses. But I think it's my thermostat also. I put a new cap on and it was still over heating some. So I'm going to put a high preformance thermostat one. One that's rated for 160 degrees. Is that a good idea or what do you think?
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Old May 28, 2013 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by etex
Sounds like the thermostat is not opening.
I appreciate the replies. I replaced my cap but didn't do much. I think I'm going to put a high performance thermostat in. For 160 degrees. Ideas about that?
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Old May 28, 2013 | 07:21 PM
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If your cooling system is clean and working properly (not clogged up, water pump working, thermostat working) you should not need a cooler thermostat. A cooler thermostat will hurt your fuel economy and you could still have the hot spot in your cooling system that is causing it to overheat.
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Old May 28, 2013 | 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank_Ford
If your cooling system is clean and working properly (not clogged up, water pump working, thermostat working) you should not need a cooler thermostat. A cooler thermostat will hurt your fuel economy and you could still have the hot spot in your cooling system that is causing it to overheat.
It was only an idea. And thank you for the info about burning extra fuel. Will it add to performance at all?? I plan to replace my radiator also so the Cooling system will be done.
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Old May 28, 2013 | 10:55 PM
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With the engine cold, pull the thermostat out and put the housing back on, no gasket or sealer needed. Then remove the lower hose from the connection at the radiator. Now put a garden hose into the thermostat housing and turn on the water almost full blast. See what comes out of the bottom hose. Just let the water run until what's coming out of the lower hose is nice and clean.

Now put the hose into the top of the radiator and see what comes out, how much its flowing. Then put the cap on and put the hose into the upper radiator hose and see if anything changes coming out the bottom of the radiator.

If everything looks ok and is flowing well put the new thermostat in. Then fill it up, put the proper lb radiator cap on, start it up, and see if the issue still exists. This is the easiest and cheapest process to start with.
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Old May 29, 2013 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Crownman
With the engine cold, pull the thermostat out and put the housing back on, no gasket or sealer needed. Then remove the lower hose from the connection at the radiator. Now put a garden hose into the thermostat housing and turn on the water almost full blast. See what comes out of the bottom hose. Just let the water run until what's coming out of the lower hose is nice and clean.

Now put the hose into the top of the radiator and see what comes out, how much its flowing. Then put the cap on and put the hose into the upper radiator hose and see if anything changes coming out the bottom of the radiator.

If everything looks ok and is flowing well put the new thermostat in. Then fill it up, put the proper lb radiator cap on, start it up, and see if the issue still exists. This is the easiest and cheapest process to start with.
Brilliant. I like that, that way I can determine the problem area. Thank you!
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