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Help with Codes I pulled

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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 05:30 PM
  #11  
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I would test a few of those items first.
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 11:48 AM
  #12  
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Well, i didnt get much time to mess with the truck this weekend, but i did push on the connector to the ECU and decided to drive it to work today,seemed to run great, no check engine lite or stalling, missing etc! So I am going to pull the connector off and clean it and put it back on, make sure it is secure. An suggestions on how to clean the contact? Think it would be ok to use dielectric grease?
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 03:48 PM
  #13  
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Use electrical contact cleaner. It's in the store with the other cleaners. Dielectric grease won't hurt just don't pack too much in there. It can force the pins open and break contact. A little bit works fine.
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 09:06 AM
  #14  
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those codes may be old from way back then.take the terminals off your battery for awhile,say 30 mins,and reconnect them again.Then,run the codes again.you may be surprised half of the codes went away,or not,depends.

i've ran my codes on my truck many of times.I'm guessing your map sensor and solenoid are bad,just guessing.
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Old Dec 28, 2012 | 02:22 PM
  #15  
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Ok, so i crawled under the truck and found that was a hose not hooked up, i think it went down to the exhaust. I plugged it and it seems to run better, but the CEL is on and it is shifting hard, appears to be in a fail-safe mode. On my drive home, once in a while the CEL would go off and the truck would stall, when i was off the gas(stopped, or rolling to a stop). So now I am going to go check the codes again, hopefully alot less, I'll report back my findings.
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 07:43 PM
  #16  
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Ok so I pulled the codes again, some went away, some new ones showed up. The only difference is that the hose from behind the back of the intake manifold was open to the elements, and I plugged it up. Now it shifts hard when the CEL is on, and when the truck tries to shut the CEL off, it misses and stalls out. I'm going to start searching for some answers and first focus on the 311 code.

Also, the hose for the EGR system that is supposed to hook to the exhaust, do i need a certain pipe there, or can i just run a hose to the down pipe?

thanks!


KOEO:

111 - System pass


CM:

122 - TPS circuit below minimum 0.6 volts.

327 - DPFE or EVP circuit below minimum voltage of 0.2 volts.


KOEG Codes:

311 - Thermactor air system inoperative (right side)

411 - Cannot control rpm during KOER low RPM check

538 - Insufficient RPM change during KOER dynamic response test/ Operator error

536 - Brake On/Off circuit failure / switch not actuated during KOER test

632 - Overdrive cancel switch not changing state (E4OD)
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 01:06 AM
  #17  
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Did you hit the throttle, brake and OD switch when doing the test? That looks like the issue with several of those codes.
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 07:54 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Warlockk
Did you hit the throttle, brake and OD switch when doing the test? That looks like the issue with several of those codes.
No i didnt, but the idle on the truck went all over the place on its own during the test. Once warmed up, without the paperclip installed, it will not stay running.

I'm going to test and maybe just replace the TPS, I found a few guys having similar running issues and this was the problem. I wish I had more time to work on this thing!
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 05:32 PM
  #19  
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I don't have the procedure memorized anymore but there is a point at with you must turn the wheel, step on the brake , hit the gas, and switch the OD button. If you didn't do these it would set those temporary codes.
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 05:34 PM
  #20  
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So i ran a some hose from the evap hose behind the intake to the cat, still stalling and missing, just as I expected. I then changed the TPS and its running like a champ! I only drove it around the block, i'll take it for a longer ride later, but it seems to have been the problem. Thanks for everyone's help.
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