Ok so I replaced my auto hubs with manuals about a month ago.... They were working great.... Now on my driver side I blew a wheel bearing I tried to get it out but it seems to be frozen on there... I did the passenger side and got everything apart and replaced but the driver side is being stubborn what can I do????

 

If I could just get the rotor off I'd be happy...

 

Sounds like only thing holding that on is the seal. May be a tough one to get off. If you got a three jaw puller would help.

 

Rotors are cheap don`t worry about replacing it. The bearing is going to be the hard one to get off. Put two flat pry bars on the back side of the rotor and go to town.

 

Just to update you all my trucks been siting at a buddies house and I was gonna attempt to limp the truck home and got extremely lucky... As I was driving I felt the wheel loosen... I pulled over and low and behold the wheel was just about to fall off (I left the hub and locknut off for this attempt...) so I just called AAA and now I'm waiting for a tow... So I'm getting a free tow and avoiding the *** pain of banging or having to cut off the rotor... Just have my fingers crossed that the internal of the hub and threads on the axle aren't destroyed...

 

During your lockout swap you used the appropriate locknuts, yes? ie inner, holed washer and outer?

 

Yea I used the right ones I think what may have happened is I over tightened the locknuts... I don't have a torque wrench so I figured WTH ill just make it tight... Lesson learned. I'm no mechanic this is my toy truck and I'm learning as I go... Right tool for the job has now become something ill follow....

 

Got the caliper off and found that the front bearing had completely separated... The inner ring had welded itself to the axle after some. Grinding and hammering it came off in two pieces.... Minimal marring to the threads... Won't be able to work on not again till I come back from Texas but should be a simple bearing replacement at this point... And to further on my last the bearing had rode forward so I'm guessing I had under tightened the locknut....

 

You probably tightened it fine. Drivers side wheel goes counterclockwise when going forward, the direction the truck usually goes. Sometimes it forces the rear nut to unscrew and jam against the lock nut.

 

Shouldn't be possible with the three piece locknut setup? The inner nut can't spin 'cause it's got a tit that engages a hole in the holed washer. Holed washer can't turn cause it engages the keyway in the spindle. Outer locknut tightens it all down and should be tightened gutentight.

To the OP, there's a spec for the outer locknut only, somewhere around 200 ft lbs but don't quote me. The inner locknut is positioned by you with feel for the bearings as you spin the rotor by hand. Keep rocking the rotor back and forth as you intially tighten the inner nut so the bearings can seat by squirming into their races. Tighten gently with maybe a short 1/2" ratchet until it's difficult to turn the rotor by hand, then back off "some" until it spins freely but has no play. No scientific amount here, much of it is experience. Oh, and make sure the tit lines up with a hole (hmm??) in the holed washer or you'll have to bump it one way or another until it does.

I know sometimes with the one-piece ratcheting locknuts Ford calls out an exact amount, ie tighten XX ft lbs and then back off 1/4 turn or 5 clicks or something, but even at that they're making it up and just attempting to give some standard in writing that makes sense.