While removing the fuel filter, I damaged one connector. The little round sheet metal with tabs that stick out (this was inside the fuel line connector and looks like it would be a spring that the tool would push) came out of the connector body.
Did I damage the connector and have to replace this part, or can I replace just the spring?
Thank you in advance for any advice.

 

Should be able to just replace the spring. And yes that is what the tool is for. The spring "locks" onto the filter to hold it in place.

 

I don't remember where people said they got the clip spring thing. Maybe the Help! section of the parts store.

 

I don't remember either... around where all the little random parts are I think. I've seen them at pep boys and autozone.

 

Thank you for the replies. I was able to reshape (as best I can) the spring and it snapped back into the connector body. The filter also snapped in, and I am hoping it will be a leak-less connection. I will look for the new spring. Would you answer some more questions? 1. I want to check this connection for leak. Is it a good check to just look for leaks with the engine running, or does the car have to be running? 2. I would like to re-locate the filter, and also change the filter and the connector to something easier to replace? Is there a problem with making fuel-line to filter connection with band clamps? Is there a filter (brand) that is easier to disconnect? Again, thank you in advance for the help. ps. I can do this easily now because I am replacing the fuel tank and the pump. Thanks.

 

to make it easier use the proper tool to remove it in the first place not pliers (not saying you didn't just allot of people do that and break lines)get a fuel line removal tool not a cheapo and you should be fine. as for relocating it it can be done but the banjo clamps if they can take the pressure. as for leaks just turn the key to the on position the pumps will kick in and fill the line and look for leaks

 

Engine doesn't have to be running but I would check it off and running. Generally hose clamps can't withstand the high pressure. Mine has the duck bill clips, you might be able to change it to that. Very easy to change. You might be able to relocate it with the proper fuel line repair kit.

 

You can get the springs at any parts stores help area..... I personaly don't see the need to spend money to move the filter. Just replace it once a year and nothing will get to rusted..

 

Mine were all bent up too when I changed my filter a couple months ago, previous owner im sure. I don't see any other way it could have been as f'ed up as it was. I wouldn't move it personally, its definitely a little bit of a pain to change, but if it ain't broke don't fix it.

I turned the key a few times when I changed mine, checked, started, checked again, all was good.

 

Thank you all for the reply. The damage was from me using the wrong size disconnect tool. I am beginning to realize how important it is to change the filter regularly, but I think this kind of filter and connections are just too much trouble, especially how one end is behind the tank. I can barely get one hand in.
I will have to locate the filter that uses the duck bill clips, new filter holder and the line repair kit, but I think it will be worth the expense in the future. The original filter is a struggle to pull off the line even with the inside spring disengaged.
Having said this, does anybody have the Ford or motorcraft disconnect tool? Does it really make the disconnection that much easier? I bought OEM disconnect tool from Pepboys. This had 4 pieces, one tool for each size. It did work but pulling the line from the filter was a struggle.
I have a last question on this. If I change to duck bill clips, I assume I have to find different type of filter. I assume I should not go to smaller filter, but how do I know? Do I just get the volume of the filter now and go for about the same or bigger? If bigger, does that do anything to the fuel pressure?
Thank you all in advance.