I was driving to work today and I smelled burning plastic, then the battery light started going off and on. Then the truck started missing, then I heard what sounded like a card in bicycle spokes. Last time the battery light started blinking a wire melted on the alternator plug, but that wasn't it this time. I just got done checking it out. I pulled the alt and opened it up. One of the brush wires melted apart so being the cheap *** I am I patched it back together with a crimp connector, a very small modified one. I put it back together and went to put it on the truck. I had to plug in the voltage regulator because it's in a hard to reach spot, then lowered the alternator into place. As soon as it contacted the bracket it started sparking, so I took it apart completely. It looked like the internal parts were rubbing even though the bearings are good, so I cleaned it up until I didn't hear any scraping and tried again. Same thing, more sparking.

I'm still going to cheap out though, I'm going to the junkyard tomorrow to get one. I have to get the bracket too because even though I used antiseize on the bolts one was stuck and snapped the bracket. Also my 2 year old belt is separating. Maybe I'll finish deleting the smog pump. Good thing I have tomorrow off, but not how I wanted to spend it.

 

weird sounds like something shorted internally...

how loud was the stereo when it fried...?

 

Might be one of the diodes. but its cheaper to get one from junkyard than try to fix it.

 

I was curious as to what was wrong with it. I put a junkyard regulator on it a while back, and changed the main plug because a wire melted. The same wire is melting again, the one that connects the regulator to the alternator.

The stereo wasn't very loud, it was "morning". 11:00 am

 

I totally agree about a diode.

 

that sounds like a short somewhere Sean...what were you doing when it went...turning, stopping?

weird it melted the same wire twice...even one being the conversion wire...its not overloaded is it...?

i;ve had alts short internally and not kill the wiring but I have had generators short and melt the wires between the gen and regulator....many times on my 57 chevy...

 

I don't remember exactly what I was doing, just driving. It's not overloaded I guess. I don't have any options at all but I do have the trailer and the stereo amp pushes 600 watts or so. It does hit hard enough to dim the lights, but they weren't on. The battery to the trailer isn't hooked up either.

It's fixed now though. AutoZone wanted $100 for an alternator. I got an AutoZone one at the junkyard and I got the bracket with it for $37. I just put my chewed up belt back on because I'm still deciding if I'm going to swap the a/c in. I don't want to buy two belts.

 

eh do the ac then get a new belt...you'll be much happier...

and just so I know....

what does fried alternator taste like...? and dont say chicken

 

It tastes like squirrel.

 

ok i got to say diodes if they go bad they just done work period , diodes send current oneway only and will not the other.. i got a ottowa yard jockey in last year at work and guy unloading it says better strap a battery charger to this one every mech at old plant worked on it and it still has to be jumped every morning ,, i smiled ok will do ... i had to jump it to get it running and started testing , i noticed when i touched alt it was hot as hell and fuel filter is right besided it wow damn lucky they did char you.... shut engine off and started to remove alt and notice my wrench stuck to alt it was magntized ... i tore it down and armater was groved ...also stripped the wire cover off to find melted wire from battery to alt ... rewired it and did it like factory(new wire ends solder in and same gauge wire) and no problems since .. if you have melted wires its a short and if you just cut out melted piece and reconnect (wire splice) them youre creating resistance .. it will come back to haunt you resistance causes heat....